Five Rad Mountain Bike Rides in Southern Utah

Porcupine Rim above Moab

The spring pilgrimage to Utah is a common trek for avid mountain bikers. They flock to the southern part of the state in search of dry trails and to avoid nasty east coast weather or the rainy Northwest. Moab is the well-known Mecca of Fat Tired Fun, but there are two-wheeled adventures splashed from there all the way to Las Vegas.

In April, I was lucky enough to spend a few weeks romping around on the splendid singletrack in southern Utah. Under blue skies, my tires crunched and whirred over miles of red rock until my legs burned from climbing and my neck creaked from rocky descents. Some days I rode solo, hours in the middle of nowhere where I could stop on a bluff and enjoy a solitary lunch. I also met up with friends from Oregon, Colorado, and California to form biker gangs bandying about enough acronyms to make a newbie rider’s brain bulge.

Group ride on Magnificent 7 in Moab

We rode singletrack, not fire roads… This is a connector section on the Mag 7 trail.

Here are the trails I’ll ride again when I return to Utah…which I certainly plan on doing! Even if you’re on a family trip or are cruising with a partner who doesn’t ride, I suggest that any mountain biker driving through the five national parks of Utah should bring a (full-suspension) bike with them to fully enjoy the fun.

  1.  Porcupine Rim (Moab, UT) – first up, any mountain biker visiting Moab needs to shred down Porcupine. It’s one of the most famous trails in the U.S. (world?), and for good reason. The trail is miles of downhill fun that, depending on snow levels, starts as high as 11,000’ elevation and finishes at 4,000’ at the Colorado River. Along the way, the action heats up from silky singletrack into rockier terrain, finishing with riding to test the best riders. All the while, you’ll be craning your neck to catch views of the red rock valleys that make Utah famous.A tip: don’t be a Roadie Punk – pay $25 for a shuttle from one of the bros in town (Porcupine Shuttle is great, as is Coyote Shuttle) and let them drive your lazy butt to the bottom of the snowline. You’re going to have 20+ miles of downhill; save the vertical gain for your commute and weekly ride back home! You came to Moab to shred the GNAR, bro.
  1. JEM/Goulds Loop (Hurricane, UT) – sick of rocky drops and full-face helmets, and simply want to grin your face off? If JEM were a song, it would be a Green Day jam cranked to full volume. Pedal as hard as you can on this IMBA Epic and live it up! The trailhead is right outside Zion National Park, an easy hop free of tourist throngs in the park. Add Goulds/Hurricane Rim to the mix if you want a big (and very fun) day on the bike.

    Hurricane Rim

  1. Thunder Mountain (Bryce Canyon NP) – hoodoo rock spires, backcountry riding, and solitude are the name of the game on Thunder Mountain. Just a few minutes from the entrance to Bryce Canyon, this ride is a remote ride to a lunch spot overlooking the valley. If you see another person on the trail, I’d be surprised.

    Hoodoos! Please excuse the poor quality iPhone shot...

    Hoodoos! 

  1. Gooseberry Mesa (Hurricane, UT) – bikers rave about Slickrock Trail in Moab, but I’d rather ride the mesas around Zion National Park any day of the week. Why? Gooseberry is the same style of riding (up and down on grippy, rolling rock), but is more technical and fun, especially the South Rim trail. The mesa is accessed via a rough road that results in empty trails and solitude any hermit worth his bushy beard would enjoy, plus free camping. Did I mention sweeping views of the valley outside of Zion National Park? Gooseberry is the well-known mesa, but there are others, such as Guacamole Mesa, that are good fun as well.

    Gooseberry Mesa

  1. Magnificent 7 to Portal Trail (Moab, UT) – there’s a sign near a cliff edge on the Portal Trail that intones, “Walk your bike. People have died here. People like you. GET OFF YOUR BIKE.” Signs leading to Portal encourage turning around while you still can, shrilly proclaiming that you are approaching trails best ridden by <25 year old males with GoPros strapped to their heads. Don’t listen to them – Mag 7 through Portal is one of the most fun, physical and view-laced trails you’ll ever ride. Use your brain and walk the cliffs marked by warning signs, bring plenty of grub and water, and make this a must-do if you’re an advanced rider looking for an adventure around Moab. Shuttling to the top of Mag 7 (as they call it)  and riding all the way out is a 20+ mile, all-day adventure through the rocky terrain around Moab that you won’t forget.

    Portal Trail Moab

  2. Durango, CO trail systems. I enjoyed a week of exploring this high-altitude mountain biking destination while local riders I met showed my lungs who was boss. All the trails are accessed right from downtown; this is another IMBA Epic that anyone who enjoys biking will dig. Phil’s World, right across from Mesa Verde National Park (about 40 miles west of Durango), is another stellar area developed by local trail builders.

    Telegraph Trails in Durango

For trail guides, I recommend picking up maps at any of the bike shops in Moab. For the other rides, the Singletracks.com or Maplets app are great resources. Even without a map, you’ll figure it out…and if you don’t, then you’ll get to do a longer (if unplanned) ride! Bonus miles are the best. Take a picture of the trail head map and head out.

Here’s to two-wheeled fun in the wilds of Utah. Snag a spring break from the cold and wet; head to the red rock! Ride on, amigos.

My buddy John B. riding a ridge on Amasa Back in Moab.

My buddy John riding a ridge on Amasa Back in Moab.

Cards Against Humanity game night in Moab

A post-ride session of Cards Against Humanity. John, you know I deserved the win on this round!

Camping in Yosemite Without Advance Reservations

Top of Yosemite Point

Yosemite National Park is famous for granite peaks, huge waterfalls and scenic open meadows. It’s a place that inspired John Muir, the famous naturalist and author, to muse, “Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul alike.” For decades, the park has dropped jaws with its stunning vistas.

Chelsea had never experienced the magic of Yosemite Valley, so it featured high on the destination list for this road trip. However, the park’s popularity makes finding a campsite quite difficult, especially before summer-only Tuolumne Meadows opens up at higher elevations in the park. For instance, not a single site was available in the Valley when we checked a couple weeks before our visit, even with hundreds of campsites in the park. And then, through the process of trial and error, we figured a few things out.

Yosemite Falls looking good with a view across the valley at Half Dome.

Yosemite Falls looking good with a view across the valley at Half Dome.

In case you didn’t know, many state and national parks have first-come, first-served campsites, a nice feature for those of us who prefer leaving things open and serendipitous (*cough* don’t like to plan ahead). If you get in early enough (usually 9 a.m.), almost any campground has space for last-minute visitors. Once you snag a spot, it’s yours as long as you want it. Even busy parks like Zion utilize this system, which makes it easy enough to slip in an impromptu visit.

Not Yosemite. The main campgrounds – Upper, Lower and North Pines – are reserved months in advance within minutes of the reservation system opening for specific dates. Millions of people per year stream through the park, most of them with specific vacation dates in mind. For people like us with Gumby-flexible schedules, it is hard to plan that far in advance. When we’ve tried, being tied to a schedule often generates more headaches and missed opportunities than it creates.

Clouds form around Half Dome at sunset.

Clouds form around Half Dome at sunset.

Fear not, weary traveler. Even without advance reservations, you can camp in the Yosemite Valley. Without any prior reservations, we strung together almost two weeks of camping, no problemo. Luckily, our time intersected with three sets of friends, including new friends Michael and Kristin (he’s an amazing pro photographer), plus finally meeting (in-person!) our buddies from Nomadly In Love, who just finished four years driving around South America. The cycle tourists riding from Key West to Alaska, Keys to Freeze, also caught up with us again after biking through Death Valley (mad props, team).

Our buddy Stevie from SprinterLife.com at the foot of Vernal Falls.

Our buddy Stevie from Nomadly In Love and her friend Ariana at the base of Vernal Falls.

Without further ado, here’s what you can do to snag last-minute reservations in Yosemite:

Reserve a site through Reservations.gov as near as one day prior to your arrival.

Recreation.gov processes cancellations all the time for travelers who decide not to go, or who choose to leave the park prior to their reservation ending. Before we drove west over Tioga Pass into Yosemite (check to see if it’s open!), we stopped at a pullout, fired up the wifi hotspot and scored six nights. It won’t get you a same-day site, however (see below).

Arriving without a reservation?

There is a walk-in, tent-only campground at Camp 4 that rock climbers in the park tend to frequent. This campground doesn’t fill up the way car camping/RV slots do. The day we arrived, there was tons of room, even at 4 p.m. At $6/person, it’s a bargain relative to the $26/night for car camping. So long as you’re fine with communal camping with lots of tents around, this is a great option.

Snagged a night already, but want to stay longer?

Go to the park reservation desk in Curry Village (toward the rear of the park near the campgrounds) and put your name on the waiting list at 8 a.m. to get a site. During the day, the park processes cancellations and holds them for people on the waiting list. Go take a hike, then return at 3 p.m. that day when park rangers allocate the sites based on the order you signed up for the list.

According to the ranger I spoke with, typically there are 10-15 sites that cancel. While the waiting list area seemed like a tank full of hungry piranhas circling a morsel of food, everyone was in high spirits. P.S. Curry Village has great free showers – don’t pay $5 each at Housekeeping Camp!

Nevada Falls in the foreground of Liberty Cap and Half Dome.Nevada Falls in the foreground of Liberty Cap and Half Dome.

No luck with any of that?

While often we camp in the middle of nowhere, my favorite move in any busy area is to simply call on the kindness of other travelers. Since we’re rolling in a self-contained van, I simply pull up to a site with a single car and a tent and ask the occupants if they mind if I park out of the way. This has (surprisingly) always worked! I offer money for splitting the site, but of the half dozen times I’ve used this last-ditch move, nobody has ever accepted. One guy did jokingly talk me up from $10 to $15 before refusing any payment at all.

Still no luck?!

Get a hard-sided tent or hotel room in the valley. These also book up in advance, and are (in my opinion) expensive at over $100/night, all the way up to the bargain price of $460/night at the Awahnee Hotel (lowest price). However, I should note that the huge fireplaces at the Awahnee are the best place to hang on a cold day in the park.

Ok camping outside the park?

If you don’t mind driving 30-60 minutes each way, you can head to Wawona and Hodgon Meadows campgrounds outside of Yosemite Valley. These have much more availability relative to the three (Upper, Lower and North Pines) that are in the valley proper and had availability every day we were in Yosemite.

So there you have it! The next time you are craving an impromptu trip to Yosemite, give it a shot. No guarantees, but I think the odds are in your favor that you’ll snag a spot. While you’re there, I highly recommend one of John Muir’s favorite day hikes in the park, which scurries up to Glacier Point, meanders down Panorama Trail, up to Nevada Falls, and then down to the valley. Good luck, and enjoy!

Panorama Trail in Yosemite

Panorama Trail in Yosemite with a cloud-covered Half Dome in the distance.

Flora and fauna

Keys to Freeze! Crazy that I met up with them April 16th in Durango and we have intersected paths a half dozen times since. Such a great crew - buen viaje, amigos!

Half of Keys to Freeze! Crazy that I met up with them April 16th in Durango and we have intersected paths a half dozen times since. Such a great crew – buen viaje, amigos!

Save Money, Travel Light: Borrow Ebooks from the Library

Zion National Park from Observation Point

Last week, I sat and enjoyed a book at Observation Point in Zion National Park. Just me and a setting sun to the west, plus chipmunks questing for my trail mix as I read. I wasn’t paging through a tome I lugged to the viewpoint; for years, the majority of the books I read have been digital. While I prefer hard-copy versions, finding anything other than a “Take One, Leave One” copy of a lusty bodice ripper or a Clancy thriller is tough to find when traveling. Instead, I borrow ebooks through our library back home.

Most times I mention this to someone, they’re surprised it’s an option…which means I needed to write a blog post about it. Wondering if it would be helpful, I searched and discovered a Pew Internet survey that found 48% of e-reader owners didn’t know if their library offered ebook rentals. I also learned that close to one-third of book purchases are made by libraries each year, which means by supporting your library, you are also supporting authors.

Let me dispel any confusion: you can borrow both ebooks and audiobooks from your local library, even when you’re traveling. If you read dozens of a books per year the way I do, borrowing ebooks can save you hundreds of dollars versus buying books.

This is no place to sit and read! 100 degrees AFTER sunset in Death Valley NP at Badwater. At 282 feet below sea level, it's the lowest point in the U.S.

This is no place to sit and read! 100 degrees AFTER sunset in Death Valley NP at Badwater. At 282 feet below sea level, it’s the lowest point in the U.S. These salt flats and formations were neato!

You don’t need a Kindle or other e-reader device to borrow ebooks. With just a smartphone or a tablet, and the Kindle, Nook, or iBooks app, you can check out ebooks from the library through a simple process. Here’s what you do:

  1. Get a library card! If you don’t have one, head to your local library branch and pick one up.
  2. Set up an online account to download the ebooks. The most common (and the ones I recommend) are Amazon’s Kindle, OverDrive or 3M Reader. With accounts at both Amazon and OverDrive, I’m able to download most ebook formats.
  3. After you have an Amazon, OverDrive, and 3M Reader account, you need to tie that in with your library. I use my home library in Multnomah County. To get dialed with yours, go to OverDrive.com and do a quick search for your library. Heads up that you’ll need your library card number and password to set things up.
  4. After you have your accounts (they’re free, by the way), downloading a book is simple. Use the search feature on your local library’s website, choose a book and then pick the ebook or audiobook version instead of the paper copy. Follow the instructions and download the books.
  5. If there insufficient digital licenses available to borrow, you simply jump in the queue the same way a regular book hold works. The library will email you when your book is available to download and you’ll have three days to “pick up” your book.
  6. Once you download a book, open the reading app on your phone/tablet and *MAGIC* the book appears. It will even sync across your multiple devices. Sorry, but you still have to actually read the book – there is no instant-download of the information into your brain. (Give it five years…)

I mostly read on my iPhone, which gives me the opportunity to sneak in 5-10 minute book breaks throughout the day. Using my phone lets me avoid buying another device, such as a Kindle or specific e-reader, though some people dislike reading on a smartphone because the font is small. Not to worry, you can change settings to use text so big that Andre the Giant would have loved to read it. Audiobooks are definitely best for your phone – listen to them on a bike ride, run or while driving and you’ll be amazed how you crank through pages. I listened to seven audiobooks last July during our bike tour.

The other upside to an ebook is that it fits nicely in a digital note system like the Secret Weapon (Evernote + Getting Things Done). I highlight quotes for future reference, which is incredibly easy with Amazon’s database. While I’d like to own powers of memory an SAT-prepping teen would envy, the reality is that I consume a dizzying amount of information and need some way to keep track of it. Digital books make that easy. Amazon even has a service that will flip through popular highlights in a book to help refresh your memory of a book.

Update 7/28/15: Digital books through the library are great for picking up travel guides without having to buy a specific book. I like this especially for a tiny country where we’ll only spend a few days. For example, we are currently at the Croatian border and I just downloaded a guide for Slovenia, which we pedal into tomorrow on our cycle tour through Europe.

Chelsea walks across Badwater in Death Valley NP. There's a tiny white sign on the cliff above her that reads, "Sea Level."

Chelsea walks across Badwater in Death Valley NP. There’s a tiny white sign on the cliff above her that reads, “Sea Level.”

Beyond the library, maybe you already have a Kindle library full of ebooks? Check out Lendle, which lets you borrow a book if you lend one (BookLending.com is another). eBookFling is similar, plus it expands beyond the Kindle to Nook, iOS, BlackBerry and Android readers.

So what’s the downside to borrowing ebooks? Just one thing: time limits for reading. When you borrow an ebook, you usually only get 14-21 days to read it. There aren’t any late fees, but the book disappears from your device when your time is up. You can always borrow it again though!

For travelers, I have found this is an easy way to cut down on the weight/bulk of carrying hard copy books and save money versus buying them. When I hear of a book I want to read, I first check with the library, then go to Amazon if a digital copy isn’t available to borrow. Quick, seamless, and simple, the way reading should be. Enjoy!

Grinning it up in Death Valley.

Reunited with my travel buddy!