The Wonderful, Trying Adventure of Bike Touring

Ahhh, nature. Traffic, wildfire smoke, and 95 degrees.

What does adventure, a much-belabored word, even mean these days? Fools far crazier than Chelsea and I rode bikes across the country…in 1880. On wagon trails. Not breaking new ground here, Magellan!

Adventure is so relative. For some, it’s a visit to their ancestor’s land; others, a trip to Cabo; for new parents, the first hiking date in months; for my friend Graham, it’s scaling the world’s highest unclimbed peak (NOOOPE).

For me, it’s not about unexplored exterior terrain. (Antarctica is cold, dude.) It’s searching for unexplored regions in ourselves. What’s new, challenging, different?

After 10,000 miles of bike touring, further pedaling these days offers fewer teaching moments. But in 2014, we dove headlong into our first tour and learned so much about ourselves and each other.

The bike tour prompted major positive shifts in my relationship with Chelsea, upended my work-life balance for the better, and changed my outlook on engaging with difficult endeavors.

Halfway and about to cross the Mississippi River.

The Bike Trip Idea Germinates

Like many of our life pivots, the bike tour germinated from Chelsea’s explorative spirit. Previous short tours with friends whet her appetite and a three-day birthday bike trip from LA to San Diego beckoned a longer tour.

Four months into our van trip, my work was fully remote for the first time. Most importantly, we’d finally focused our energy on aligning with important core values of freedom and self-development, not chasing the all-mighty dollar as I’d done for five years.

The touring seed grew into a towering beanstalk idea of a bike tour across the U.S. I’d never biked and camped before. Neither of us had ridden more than three days in a row.

What the hell. Let’s do this!

(Cue planning and logistics. Driving from California to Idaho to park the van at our parent’s house. I’ll skip further boring details.)

(How we pictured bike touring…) Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier looking practically fake!

Ah, Memories

Pedaling from Idaho to Maine still generates rushes of nostalgia. With 2020’s vagaries nixing travel and canceling plans, I’m reminiscing since this week marks six years since we reached the Atlantic.

In no stretch of the imagination is bike touring easy. Luckily, like initial forays into love, hormone-addled fights and sulking disappear behind the sweet memories of holding hands and first kisses. Even chafed butts and boredom and headwinds and hunger and traffic and exhaustion fail to tarnish the experience of a first bike tour. The patina creates interest!

The more-common reality: Scorching heat and scenic hay bales in Montana.

This wasn’t our light-and-easy romantic European first date. Bike touring chiefly featured solitude, us and endless pedal strokes across America. Which, it turns out, is a big.fucking.place. I’d never drive across it: WAY too far.

Hundreds of hours to pedal away thoughts, consume endless quantities of food to fuel biking all day, swear at headwinds, feel intimidated by the distance remaining, then wake up surprised (and a little disappointed) in New York because the Atlantic Ocean lay a mere week away.

Soaring above New York in a 1946 Piper Cub seaplane with a generous local we met.

This is Different

Euphoria buoyed the first few days of pedaling. The rolling wheat fields of eastern Washington, moose chomping next to our favorite rails-to-trails route in N. Idaho. Purple sunsets and satisfied grins after a hard day’s pedaling. Maine or bust!

The heat closed like a vise on day three as we climbed over Thompson Pass into Montana, temps sizzling to 100 degrees. Nothing wipes an exuberant smile away like a frying brainpan.

Rolling hills of Nebraska. Soy and corn, corn and soy, wheeee.

If the adventure starts when things go wrong, how wrong do we hope things get without reeeeally wanting it? Tales of woe create the best stories, but do we wish for them?

Can we channel Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard when he quipped, “Let the adventure begin!” after his expedition’s only map blew out the airplane window above far-east Russia?

Our less-crazy trip still presented opportunities for feelings. Straight-up fear when a Nebraska thunderstorm spiked lightning as we raced for safety, my hand pushing on Chelsea’s back. Simple amazement pedaling up the gorgeous Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier. Disillusionment at the smell and terrible sounds coming from pig farms in Iowa.

bike touring soy
Variety, the spice of life! Or soy beans for miles.

Unlike the cocoon of a car, you can’t hide on a bicycle. If it’s hot, you sweat. Wildfire smoke chased us in Montana and freezing sleet pummeled us over a pass in Vermont.

The smells, the heat, the dust, the thirst. You can’t floor it to escape: a scant hour in a car requires a solid day of pushing pedals. You’re there, present. For better or worse.

Some people say, “Any day outside is better than a day in an office.” To those flippant philosophers, I counter with a 99-degree day in the endless cornfields outside Wahoo, Nebraska, big rigs blowing by.

I’d happily trade an air-conditioned workday to skip pedaling narrow highway shoulders! Clearly I need to keep meditating.

Downshifting trucks are the best white noise for camping.
Sleeping at truckstops makes scoring an opera house hotel in Iowa even sweeter! (I’m in the turret!)

Fun Versus Satisfaction

No parent I know says, “We expect raising kids to be 100% fun!” Similarly (and infinitely easier), no extended physical trip features entirely flat bike paths, grazing moose, and lemonade stands when you’re thirsty.

Instead, we step into the most satisfying journeys of our lives anticipating adversity’s onset.

For better or worse, crucible moments transform us. Fleeing lightning storms with Chelsea comprised but one trust-building moment. Her fears about my impatience and competitiveness tainting the trip evaporated and hard moments forced us closer.

Dealing with my business mid-bike tour also revealed operational weaknesses in need of fixing. Hard, fundamental shifts still paying us dividends.

Stuck between the hammer of hard moments and the anvil of life, I’ll accept a few of Thor’s blows to affix me to another human or temper personal shortcomings. Quitting enervating jobs, ditching vampire relationships, seizing scary-yet-exciting opportunities, pushing ourselves via hard physical trips – we earn our stripes via hard stuff.

I aspire to flip back through my life’s storybook and see the full gamut of experience. Not all eye-popping sunsets and coasting downhill; rain in my face and sweat in my eyes on the uphill side. Frustration. Sadness. Fear. All of it.

kancamagus pass
Freezing Vermont sleet, a narrow road shoulder, lots of traffic, and a big pass to climb. The hot soup and warm fire at our host’s house this evening never tasted better!

The Bittersweet End of a Journey

Looking back, beautiful landscapes and people’s incredible generosity eclipse the glaring bulb of solitude and hard work. A ride in a deathtrap seaplane over the changing fall colors of New York. Leading a phalanx of burly bikers at Sturgis Rally. A grinning Iowa couple’s hospitality and a huge spread of food for two ravenous cyclists.

Sturgis Rally bike touring
“Put an engine on that thing!” This photo from Sturgis Rally will forever be one of my favorites.

So many more… Tales of round-the-world touring from Barry and Elise in Vermont. Waiting out all-day thunderstorms with Chelsea in a Nebraska hotel and gobbling down vegan ice cream sandwiches until we were sick. The real magic of a trip (of life!) is crystallized by small moments.

A week from our trip’s terminus in Portland, Maine, we considered continuing south to Florida. Hard work and perspiration aside, the simplicity of a hard day of pedaling creates satisfaction and (slow) tangible progress, mile by mile, across the country.

Instead, after 4,020 miles and 82 days of biking, we dipped our front tires in the Atlantic Ocean, snapped the obligatory success photo, and shipped our bikes home. Future touring awaited us, but the first one remains special in my memory.

Our adventure featured euphoria, exhaustion, accomplishment. A mix of pain and pleasure, fear and joy, commitment to a journey, and to each other.

Was it difficult? Hell yeah it was. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

End of the road in Maine!
bike tour U.S. map
Our route. 4,000 miles and three months of pedaling.

Smashing Fall Colors in New England – Bike Touring Video, Part 4

Welcome to the final installment (part 4 of 4) of the video series covering our 4,000 mile bike tour in the summer of 2014. If you missed previous episodes, here are parts one, two and three. This video details our travels from upstate New York to the Atlantic Ocean in Portland, Maine.Adirondack fall colors

Everyone has an opinion about the timing for prime fall color viewing. “This coming weekend, for sure.” “Oh, you just missed them by six minutes. Bummer.” It seems like the changing leaves are a German train sticking to a tight timetable, not a process unfolding slowly in the woods. All aboard the Peak Foliage Express!

From the beginning, our bike tour goal was to hit New England in time to 1) avoid cycling in snow (Abominable Snowmen hate cyclists) and 2) smash into the explosion of colors for which the area is so famous. Somehow, it all worked out.

A perfect day along a river in the Adirondacks.

A perfect day along a river in the Adirondacks.

This was our favorite part of the tour. Crisp, cool weather coupled with scenic views that left our jaws hanging like a teenager at a strip club. It really is as good as they say. (Fall colors, people – stick with me here.)

We lucked out in other ways too. Warm Showers hosts graced us with their hospitality and we added a half dozen new friends to our lives. A guy in a coffee shop invited us back for lunch at his “camp”, which turned into a boat and plane adventure. A new buddy in Burlington is Chelsea’s new soul sister. A couple in Montpelier and their incredible adventures bike touring all over the world (four years total!) inspired us to push our limits.

New England was the perfect conclusion to a trip we’ll remember forever. The journey brought us closer together as a couple, further seared a love of adventure into our souls and inspired us for another bike tour sooner than later. Even if the fall colors are only 36 hours (pffft, we saw them into late October) and the locals can’t understand what all the fuss is about, we can’t wait to get back. I can’t recommend this area of the U.S. highly enough.

Here’s the link to the final video from our tour or just click play below. Turns out that video editing is a lot of work (I’d never done it before) and I’m glad to wrap this up. A few more photos below the video too. Enjoy, and onward!

Dakota

Ducks preen and watch a kayaker on Blue Mountain Lake.

Ducks preen and watch a kayaker on Blue Mountain Lake.

I found this funny - a short bus hiding out in the Tug Hill Wilderness in the middle of nowhere New York.

I found this funny – a short bus hiding out in the Tug Hill Wilderness in the middle of nowhere New York.

A lovely evening in Burlington, VT.

A lovely evening in Burlington, VT.

 

Cyborgs on Bikes – Bike Touring Video (Part 3)

This is Part 3 of 4 of the video series documenting our 101 day trip cycling across the the U.S. in the summer of 2014. If you missed Part 2, click here to check it out. This section covers from Indiana to the middle of upstate New York.

A gorgeous night on Fletcher Lake in Indiana. Jumped in for a swim and then we watched lightning on the horizon before camping out under a giant maple tree and listening to the rain on the tent.

A gorgeous night on Fletcher Lake in Indiana. Jumped in for a swim and then we watched lightning on the horizon before camping out under a giant maple tree and listening to the rain on the tent.

Three thousand miles into the tour, we are like cyborgs on bikes. With day-to-day routines nailed (except for my elusive rain jacket, which hides in the bottom of a pannier during storms) and legs forged from steely dragon’s teeth, we zip east. Most days, we don’t even break a sweat (<–dirty lie, even cyborgs sweat in 90% humidity).

At this point, we’re both starting to think about Maine, a far-distant mirage in our minds for the first 2/3 of the trip. The realization that we might actually complete the tour without our bodies breaking down feels great. But first, we finish out Indiana, head up toward Cleveland and then skirt along the southern edge of Lake Erie all the way to Niagara Falls before heading east into upstate New York. The magnitude of the effort to get this far sank in as the fall colors of New York beckoned from afar and the days cooled off, a welcome change.

A little metal barn in the middle of nowhere on a back country road in Indiana.

A little metal barn in the middle of nowhere on a back country road in Indiana. Sad news: C’s rainbow socks wore out by the end of the trip. 🙁

You’ll notice I’m goofier in this series. Believe me, all videos are off-the-cuff and I (obviously) don’t employ a joke writer. I think you’ll get a couple chuckles at our random antics as we roll from nowhere Indiana all the way into the NE. If nothing else, it’s a good picture of what the terrain looks like!

Here’s the movie link for email subscribers, or click play below on the embedded video if you visit the site directly. Enjoy.

Dakota

P.S. There are a few more photos below the movie if you want to check those out first.

Between the motorcycle rallies and car shows, we learned quite a bit about vehicles. (Not.)

Between all the motorcycle rallies and car shows we biked through, we learned quite a bit about vehicles. Ok, not really.

A family fishes off a bridge in Ohio.

The thing to do (apparently) in Grand Rapids, Ohio is to go fishing at sunset off a small dam in town.

Cold beans by the side of the road. Accessed with an old-school can opener, no less.

Cold beans by the side of the road (on a hot day at least). Accessed with an old-school can opener, no less.

Always fun to find covered bridges!

Always fun to find covered bridges! This one is in Roann, Indiana.

Punching Through the Midwest – Bike Touring Video (Part 2)

This is Part 2 of 4 of the video series documenting our 101 day trip cycling across the the U.S. in the summer of 2014. If you missed Part 1, click here to check it out. This section covers from Spearfish, South Dakota all the way to the Indiana border. Straight through the heart of the Midwest in summer like true masochists. 

Corn crop

We didn’t plan to bike through the Midwest in August. It just worked out that way. Our timing, framed around hitting New England during peak fall colors, meant we had to spend some time in the sweltering summer. To echo Vonnegut, so it goes… Trade-offs are part of living.

After clearing Montana, we headed south through the Black Hills of South Dakota. Instead of highways, we spent a few days on the Mickelson Trail, which is a 110-mile gravel trail that cuts right through the heart of the area near Mt. Rushmore. Timing it perfectly (not), we managed to hit the area just as 500,000 motorcycles descended like loud, buzzing bees for the Sturgis Rally. I think I heard, “Put an engine on that thing!” almost as much as “I could never do what you’re doing.”

Foggy morning in Nebraska in the corn fields.

Foggy morning in Nebraska in the corn fields.

I asked a bartender in Cody, NE (pop 154) if they knew anyone who might take us in for the night since a big storm was rolling in. Isla helped us out and her cheery granddaughter made us laugh and laugh.

I asked a bartender in Cody, NE (pop 154) if they knew anyone who might take us in for the night since a big storm was rolling in. Isla helped us out and her cheery granddaughter made us laugh and laugh.

The Midwest gets a bad rap sometimes, and part of it is a bit undeserved. Take Nebraska, for instance. I think most people picture horribly flat, ugly terrain stretching for miles. Flat? On the highways, yes. Country roads were rolling and nice. Ugly? Not in the NW part of the state in the pretty, rolling Sand Hills region. We lucked out and fog was more prevalent than crushing sun for the first half of Nebraska. Clear, hot skies came as we neared Omaha, as did gnarly traffic. My advice is to avoid big cities whenever possible if you go touring because navigating them on bicycle is often difficult or just plain nerve-wracking.

Iowa’s surprise was constant rolling steep hills, not flat corn country. We toiled up them through temperatures soaring into the high 90’s in humidity so thick we could have backstroked in it. Locals were kind, generous and excited to talk to us. A new idea (to us) was Casey’s, a gas station chain also featuring pizza ovens. We ate no-cheese, veggie pizza ($12.74 with tax) and scored ice cubes for our water bottles frequently to survive. That convenience was unfortunately offset by the stink of factory farms and the doomed animals inside them that permeated the air in many stretches of the state. An up-close, visceral look at the underbelly of our food system.

Up close and personal with a soy bean field.

Up close and personal with a soy bean field.

In eastern Iowa, road shoulders were 10 feet wide to accommodate the large Amish population and their buggies, which whisk along behind quickly trotting horses. We stopped at Stringtown Grocery, an Amish establishment featuring re-bagged bulk goods branded under the store’s name. And then we hit a big milestone – The Mississippi River! I stared at the flat brown flowing waters and thought of the Louisiana Purchase. To think that a huge chunk of land west of this grand body of water at one point wasn’t even part of the United States before France sold it to us. 2,300 miles on our bikes to get here and we were barely half way to Maine.

Scenery past the Mississippi was the cliche Midwest fare. Rather non-descript days pedaling through the corn and soy fields of Illinois blend together into podcasts and audiobooks that curbed the monotony a bit. Long days in the sun melded into one big mass of states starting with I as we left Iowa for Illinois and Indiana.

Corn fields and a rusty silo to hold the bounty.

Corn fields and a rusty silo to hold the bounty.

Our ability to forget difficult trials is powerful. This portion of our tour is scarcely three months ago and yet feels so long ago. The events of August in the Midwest are already softer in my mind. Memories of days where we had to linger in a gas station to let our internal temperatures cool down are slipping away. The sun’s fangs are blunted and the sauna of the humidity diminishes. Even the sameness of the landscape – corn, soy, repeat – looks better in the pictures.

What remains etched in stone is a mental confidence that we persevered as a team, pushing through conditions we normally would choose to avoid at all costs. The crucible of the Midwest forged our relationship into a stronger bond. For that reason alone, this tough section of the tour was worth it.

Enough chit chat. How about that video?! Email subscribers: click here for Part 2 of 4. Visitors to the website, just click play below in the embedded video. Enjoy…and see you shortly in Part 3!

Cheers,

Dakota

 

Cranking Through the Rockies – Bike Touring Video (Part 1 of 4)

Waterton National Park, Alberta

I rarely look back. Forward, onward, tally ho! Always new adventures on the horizon, people to visit, places to see, as they say. Perhaps you’ve picked up on that?

Maybe that’s the reason I so enjoyed digging into the videos from our bike tour between hikes in Acadia National Park while we “kicked back” in Maine. Photos are fun to flip through, but they don’t pick up the wind, the rumble of a motorcycle, a joke or stupid song (there were lots) or the patter of raindrops. And even though the experiences are fresh, taking the journey anew through the videos was a fabulous time. I loved combining them into one continuous film voyage to bring you along for the ride and hopefully inspire you to take your own tour. Or maybe convince you that touring is the dumbest thing ever and you’d rather get on a plane to Cabo instead. (I had those thoughts…see Day 23 in the video.)

It was interesting watching my tone change as the trip progressed. You can literally see me relax and get into a flow where I was less stressed or worried. Lots more joking as my goofy side took charge and my business side (which isn’t the real me anyway) slid into the background. It was still there taking care of logistics, but the rest of the time I was more carefree and open to whatever came our way. I think you’ll notice too.

When we were deciding if extended touring was for us, I would have loved to see a video like this with commentary from the rider rather than just music. From a couple hours of clips, I cut it way down to pass along the ups and downs of touring plus scenery from many parts of the country that most people never visit. I think you’ll dig it!

This is part 1 of 4 and covers 32 days from our start in Viola, Idaho to Spearfish, SD over 1,346 miles. (Here’s part 2.) Come along for the ride! It winds through the Rocky Mountains with some amazing scenery in Glacier and Waterton National Parks. Then we hit the plains and roll across Montana in a diagonal line to Spearfish, South Dakota.

Email subscribers, click here to view the video. Others, just click play below to watch the embedded version. A note that all videos were taken with an iPhone and were impromptu, unrehearsed and occasionally ridiculous. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Cheerio,

Dakota

P.S. In case you haven’t seen it, check out the stats summary with all the numbers from our bike tour.

 

Bike Touring Across the U.S. – Breaking Down The Numbers

Enjoying a sunny day in New Hampshire.

Enjoying a sunny day in New Hampshire.

Ah, numbers. The engineer in me loves this post. For all of you who requested data summing up our bike tour, put your Spock hat on and enjoy. While in no way does a bunch of digits encapsulate the fun, travails, adventure and overall accomplishment of riding 4,000 miles across the States, it is interesting to see it all laid out.

Without further ado, here’s the full route we took and below that is all the data. If you’re not interested, skip the numbers and just look at the pictures or watch the video (Part 1) of our tour. However, I promise there aren’t any graphs or bar charts, so don’t be skerred. 🙂

All the twists and turns from the SE corner of Washington all the way to Portland, Maine.

All the twists and turns from the SE corner of Washington all the way to Portland, Maine. We’re all about the most direct route…

  • Total Miles Ridden: 4,010
  • Total Miles: 4,052 (includes 20 miles on a ferry across Lake Champlain to Burlington and 22 miles late at night in the back of a pickup truck in Illinois on a thunderstorm/faulty tire day)
  • Distance if We’d Taken the Freeway Straight Across: 2,900 (nooooo thanks! So boring.)
  • Total Days: 101 (June 28 – October 6, 2014)
  • Total Days on the Bike: 83 (rest/fun/logistics days = 18 out of the 101 total)
  • Total Hours Pedaling Bikes: 363 for D, 401 for C (I waited at the top of big hills and long passes. Before you report me to the Spouse Abandonment Police: don’t worry, we rode together a lot too!)
  • Average Time Per Day Riding: 4.5 hours for D, 5.1 for C, with about 7.5 hours from start to finish each day including stopping for whatever
  • Elevation Gain: 127,490 (4.75 trips up Everest from sea level and 1,500 feet per day average)
  • Average per Day: 48.1 miles (not including rest days. Our goal at the outset was 50 per day so not bad.)
  • Average Speed: 11.0 for D, 10.0 for C

    Chelsea climbs a pass on a sunny day in the White Mountains.

    Chelsea climbs a pass on a sunny day in the White Mountains.

  • Days Without a Shower: Only 6 days. And 3 of those featured creeks or lakes for a nice dip at the end of the day.
  • Longest Stretch Without Seeing Another Bike Tourist: 61 days (Nebraska all the way to New York…and the guy we saw in NY wasn’t going cross-country)
  • Number of Motorcycle Rallies We Inadvertently Crashed: 2 (Sturgis, SD and Ohio)
  • Number of States We Pedaled In: 15 of them. 16 if insanity is a state… (Plus one Canadian province.)
  • Longest Day: 85 miles (a not-flat day in the cornfields of Nebraska. Honorable mention to 84 miles in 98 degrees in SE Montana where we met a beat-up looking bike tourist who spent the prior night in a ditch after calling it early due to 30 mph wind and killer heat.)
  • Shortest Day: 5 miles (seaplane rides always trump cycling)
  • Longest Continuous Climb: 29.7 miles (4,500’ climb into the Black Hills from Spearfish, SD)
  • Steepest Climb: 23% grade in the Finger Lakes near Ithaca, New York
  • Biggest Elevation Day: 5,600’ (up and down along Lake Koocanusa in NW Montana)
  • Biggest Surprise Elevation Day: 4,000’ in…Iowa?! Dude, WTF.
  • Hottest recorded temperature: 107 degrees in Thompson Falls, MT (and there was the day in SE Montana when it hovered around 100 all day and 97 the next. PLENTY of days in the mid-90s in the Midwest)
  • Swimming-In-Humidity Award : Illinois! August is steamin’ there.

    A great vista at the top of a pass in the White Mountains.

    A great vista at the top of a pass in the White Mountains.

  • Earliest pedaling start time: 6:02 am (Cardston, Alberta back into Montana on a hot, long, windy day)
  • Latest start: Crack of noon a few times on shorter mileage days or if we were enjoying conversation with people hosting us. Our get-after-it-early mentality quickly slid as temps dropped in September in favor of hanging out with cool people as long as possible and still make some progress east.
  • Latest finish: 10:09 pm with the fireflies in the pitch dark to Greenfield, Iowa for a night’s stay at an opera house
  • Days in a Row without a Day Off: 10 (average of 7-9 days in a row pedaling)
  • Most Days Off in a Row: 2

    Dakota climbing in the White Mountains. Roads the way cyclists love them: low traffic and big shoulder under blue skies.

    Dakota climbing in the White Mountains. Roads the way cyclists love them: low traffic and big shoulder under blue skies.

  • Flat tires: 5 for D (4 destructo-bomb blowouts thanks to a rim that was finicky with higher tire pressures, 1 flat with a sharp piece of gravel) and 3 for C
  • Tires replaced: This was an FAQ by people we met: “How many tires have you replaced?” Not many! Zero for D (new set of Schwalbe Marathons easily made it) and 3 for C. Her tires started with a few thousand miles on them already and then there was a faulty new tire that pooped out after only 1,000 miles.
  • Other bike troubles: ZERO. My Salsa Fargo and C’s Surly Cross-Check worked flawlessly. Hoo-ray.
  • Pairs of Cycling Shorts Turned Transparent/Indecent by Sunshine: 1 for D, 2 for C (all our panniers went from bright to very faded red too)
  • Personal Injuries: Zero. Lucky stars counted for this one. We’re both feeling great and strong as can be.
  • Number of Pushups Done to Avoid Turning Into All-I-Do-Is-Bike Upper Body Wimpo:  6,270 (max of 78 in a row). Finished stronger than I started, but still didn’t hit my goal of 100 straight!
  • Number of Vehicles Honking in Anger: Just 1 (an a-hole in a red sports car in Wahoo, Nebraska)
  • Number of Vehicles Honking or Waving to Cheer Us On: Dozens!
  • Number of Days We Expected to Be Flat that Weren’t: Roughly the same number we expected (dreamed?) that we’d have a tailwind and didn’t. Meaning a lot.
  • Chance We’ll Bike Tour Through the Midwest Again in August Heat: 1.3% (never say never)
  • Chance We’ll Do a Long Bike Tour Again in the Future: 100%! Continental Divide perhaps? I didn’t buy a Salsa Fargo just for road riding…

And that’s the data! I could of course crunch more of it, but I’d rather finish this glass of wine and watch a movie here in Bar Harbor, Maine. If you’d like to know a certain stat, let me know and I’d be happy to dig into it.

Ciao for now,

Dakota

P.S. I pulled most of the data from the GPS info I uploaded to Strava during our trip. Then I tapped into a great Strava aggregation tool that made it really easy to parse through.

We didn't count, but here's just a sampling of all the awesome people we met along the way.

We didn’t count, but here’s just a sampling of all the awesome people we met along the way.

Chelsea rips down a mountain pass.

Chelsea rips down a mountain pass.

 

We Biked to the Atlantic Ocean!

We made it!We made it! Bonjour from Portland, Maine. 4,000 miles of effort, laughter, sweat and adventures lay to the west and the Atlantic Ocean stretches to the east with 101 days of bike touring at our backs.

And now, it’s time to turn around and pedal back! We are gearing up for a winter assault through Canada since Chelsea loves the test of freezing temps and I’ve always wanted to Eskimo kiss a caribou. Without rest days, I calculate we can reach the west coast by Christmas.

Juuust kidding. Biking in the cold sucks. I will say that if I had a dollar for every person who asked, “How are you getting home? Biking?” I could fly us both home first-class and probably buy a nice messenger bag to carry my two ratty, grease-spotted cycling jerseys too. That isn’t the plan though.

We considered continuing our cycle tour down the east coast all the way to the Florida Keys. (Yes, we’re still having that much fun.) We scoped out routes, deliberated a bit and then axed that idea. With days getting short and nasty weather looming, we decided it would be doable, but not nearly as enjoyable as returning another time to explore the Atlantic seaboard on bikes. Put that one on the bucket list, shelved for now.

A cool, foggy start to our last day in Maine.

A cool, foggy start to our last day in Maine.

Instead, we’re shipping our trusty touring steeds, the Salsa Fargo and Surly Cross-Check, back to Idaho to reunite with the van. And then…

The journey continues! We’re not done yet. Over eleven months on the road since we took off in the van last November. No bikes and no Sprinter van for this next leg, just us and the backpacks that Chelsea’s parents brought with them on the plane last night.

In November, we will be in one place (location to be announced, grin) awhile to reflect as winter rolls in. We’re slowing down the pace to let the past year soak in and wash over us. Time to let ideas from our trip marinate, sprout and take hold, which is always tougher when we’re constantly on the move.

Thanks for coming along for the ride! We love sharing it with you and so appreciate hearing from people we’ve met all over the country or those who found us through the magic of the Interwebs. Looking forward to having you aboard as we traipse about.

 Onward!

Dakota

 

Every finish to a bike ride requires matching lightning socks! D is blue/yellow, C is black/red. Shazam!

Every finish to a bike ride requires matching lightning socks! D is blue/yellow, C is black/red. Shazam!

Heel click at the Atlantic!

Heel click at the Atlantic!

A Final Exam in the White Mountains

If our trip is a three month study of cycle touring, Saturday in New Hampshire was the final exam. Quizzes of headwinds and prep tests of hills in the rain had us ready, and good thing. The White Mountains are famous for their fickle weather and steep climbs, both of which were thrown at us as we cranked up Kancamagus Pass. “The Kanc,” as locals call it.

Let me first say that I am not complaining. We chose to do this tour and never expect every day on the bikes to be fun. Perhaps you picked up on that? I often shake my head and laugh harder on days that test my will and patience because sometimes it can seem so ridiculous to be outside. (As one guy we met told us, “That sounds like way too much work for a vacation.” This ain’t a vacation, buddy!) People driving the other way must think I’m eating lead paint chips instead of trail mix when they see me grinning away in the pouring rain. And the more rain, the more I grin. Into the fray and out the other side stronger, either mentally or physically. Or at least that’s what I like to tell myself.

Chelsea working hard near the Kancamagus Pass overlook in a cold, soaking rain. She doesn't always smile. :)

Chelsea working hard near the Kancamagus Pass overlook in a cold, soaking rain. She doesn’t always smile. 🙂

With so few days on the bikes left, a day in the rain wasn’t a big deal. Neither was a tough climb. If we can’t handle those after 3,900 miles of biking, we need to find a couch and put on Mr. Potato Head costumes. (Or maybe I need that costume for cycling regardless?) The roundhouse kick to the day was constant streaming traffic seeking fall foliage at its peak. Nothing sets us on edge like crawling up a mountain while cars and Harleys gun past in a rush to get to a summit socked in with clouds.

If every day on the bikes was like this, we wouldn’t bike tour. It wears on the nerves, slams down blinders over nice views, and makes me want to chuck my bike in a ditch and stick out my thumb for a ride. And yet a simple mantra got me through heat in the plains, headwinds in the Midwest and dangerous traffic in cities and busy roads. “This too shall pass,” I tell myself. Semi hauling doomed cows roars by with a giant gust of wind while trailing steer piss and a horrible stench? Wind so strong I have to stand up to pedal? “This too shall pass,” I yell into the onslaught.

A misty morning in the White Mountains east of Lincoln, NH.

Before the rain… A misty morning in the White Mountains east of Lincoln, NH.

It’s a simple saying I’ve known for years (who hasn’t heard it?), and yet cycle touring has deployed it to the front lines of my brain. This bike trip constantly reminds me that few things in life, good or bad, are permanent. If we take anything too seriously, especially ourselves and whatever “random” path in life we are on, all we need to do is think “this too shall pass.” I’ve found that it also adds perspective to ask myself, “Why do I deserve this?” Oh yeah, that’s right…I did this, which led to that, and here I am.

Claiming responsibility for being on The Kanc in subpar conditions made it just another day, one we could steel ourselves against and emerge triumphant. Which we did, pedaling up soaking wet and hungry to delicious fresh-baked bread and hot soup at a host’s home in North Conway. Sitting by a warm fire shoveling food into my face, the trials of the day were forgotten like engineering formulas from college.

And now, with the Atlantic Coast practically in sight, it’s like the final week of high school when all we do is watch movies in class and wait to graduate. The hard work is done, and easy rolling hills and sunshine are our playground for the rest of the tour. Or so it seems. If that changes, life goes on. For that too shall pass as we spin toward the coast and whatever comes next.

Onward!

Dakota

P.S. Here are a couple short videos from the day. Please excuse my consistently amateur, unedited and shaky camera work! Also, for all of you reading via email, here are the links: Video 1 and Video 2.

P.P.S. The shots below are from the day after riding the pass. As they say in New Hampshire, if you don’t like the weather, wait a day!

Light filters through a grove of trees.

Light filters through a grove of trees. The leaves are falling!

Enjoying lunch on a quiet lake just after crossing the border into Maine. (I also took a nap.)

Enjoying lunch on a quiet lake just after crossing the border into Maine. (I also took a nap.)

Faces from the Road: Steve from New York Dishes Out Some Inspiration

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“I always ride my bike to the trail head. Couple hundred miles on the bike, sleep in the bush on the way,” Steve told me as we pedaled next to him in the Adirondacks. He wore jean shorts and a beat-up hat and carried a huge backpack loaded with camping gear. “I just rest my pack on the gear on the rear rack and it works great.” My padded-shorts butt felt for him, but he seemed happy and in high spirits.

Steve rode an old-school mountain bike and was headed into the mountains to finish hiking the last six peaks of the Adirondack 46. Thirty years after laying sights on hiking the tallest 46 mountains in the Adirondack Mountains, this was the final push.

Here was a guy in his late 50’s flipping conventional bike touring wisdom on its head. With no training and the “wrong” gear, he was doing a 400 mile bike tour through steep mountains and sandwiching three days of backpacking in the middle! And he had nailed the peak seasons for fall foliage and was going to have an amazing time. Good for him!

Chatting with Steve as we climb through fall colors near Blue Mountain Lake.

Chatting with Steve as we climb through fall colors near Blue Mountain Lake.

Meeting him also got me thinking. With Portland, Maine beckoning from a scant 130 miles away 0ver the White Mountains, all the meditating in the world can’t stop me from pondering the next big adventure. A quest like Steve’s inspires me to consider challenges that are woven into the fabric of life for years to come rather than an all-consuming one like this bike tour.

Don’t get me wrong, there will be more adventures that require practically all our time and energy. Meeting Steve simply ignited a desire to frame out and pursue a big, audacious goal to tantalize and motivate us over a long period of time. A big writing project? Mountain biking all the IMBA Epics? Start a for-purpose company to build schools? Bike touring every country in Europe? Or maybe something completely out of left field like kayaking the Inside Passage (Kipp, let’s do it)? In the words of Mr. Burns from The Simpsons, exxxcellent.

But first things first. After a fantastic stay in Burlington that we extended after making some great new friends, today finds us pedaling into the White Mountains on a perfect fall day. Big climbs and remote mountain territory points toward a great finale enroute to Maine! Talk to you on the other side.

Dakota

P.S. A few shots from the last couple days are below.

Sunset over Lake Champlain from the lakeside path in Burlington.

Sunset over Lake Champlain from the lakeside path in Burlington.

We don't always ride on roads! Exploring some singletrack on a foggy day in Vermont.

We don’t always ride on roads! Exploring some singletrack on a foggy day in Vermont.

A thick mane of leaves frames a mountain vista in Vermont.

A thick mane of leaves frames a mountain vista in Vermont.

Gorgeous fall morning in Vermont near Montpelier. Some of the fallen leaves still have color and there are plenty remaining on the trees.

Gorgeous fall morning in Vermont near Montpelier. Some of the fallen leaves still have color and there are plenty remaining on the trees.

Montpelier, the cutest capitol city I've seen. They have a great co-op too!

Montpelier, the cutest capitol city I’ve seen. They have a great co-op too!

New Hampshire! Sunset on the foliage and a church.

New Hampshire! Sunset on the foliage and a church. We must really be in New England now.

Falling in Love with New York State

Descending a long hill on the way to Lake Placid.

Descending a long hill on the way to Lake Placid.

Ah, New York. What a great state. We absolutely will be back for more breathtaking outdoor fun. I suspect a month solely in the Adirondack Mountains would still feel fast and I’m positive we could spend an entire summer in the state no problemo.

Yesterday marked three months on the road and three weeks in the Empire State. I also realized we’ve spent half our cycling trip (46 days) in Montana and New York. Big states mixed with awesome scenery make for a wandering path and no hurry whatsoever. Our goal to slow down for our time in New England is panning out nicely!

A fallen leaf on the corner of an old, scratched dock.

A fallen leaf on the corner of an old, scratched dock.

Here are a few favorite shots from the last week pedaling through blazing red and orange trees with blue lakes twinkling in the fall sun. We’ve seen lots of day cyclists grinning away while ripping up and down the steep climbs. There are also huge numbers of canoes and kayaks on top of cars. I’d love to return to do some paddling or hit some mountain biking trails, which are apparently excellent. Then there’s hiking and running the Adirondack 46, all the peaks over 4,000’ that it seems everyone we talk to has on their bucket list.

Just a short post today before picture backlog sets in. Today is an exploring day in Burlington, Vermont after catching the ferry across Lake Champlain over from New York. The town has a great car-free walking area filled with smiling people, a gorgeous waterfront and bike path, mountain views and excellent food to boot. It feels like a sister city to Portland, Oregon. Next week we hit the coast and the end of our tour, which seems surreal at the moment. Barely 200 miles of pedaling remaining!

Happy Monday,

Dakota

Looking across the Atlantic with a view of Spain. Waiiiit a second, that's just Lake Champlain looking at Vermont.

Looking across the Atlantic with a view of Spain. Waiiiit a second, that’s just Lake Champlain looking at Vermont.

A kayaker on Blue Mountain Lake.

A kayaker on Blue Mountain Lake.

Chelsea crushes another hill with the fall colors cheering her on.

Chelsea crushes another hill with the fall colors cheering her on.

Fall colors reflected on a lake south of the town of Tupper Lake.

Fall colors reflected on a lake south of the town of Tupper Lake.

Two fisherman ply their skills in the early morning NE of Lake Placid.

Two fisherman ply their skills in the early morning NE of Lake Placid.

Fall colors peak through bare tree trunks.

Fall colors peak through bare tree trunks.

A nice view of Tupper Lake.

A nice view of Tupper Lake.

I made a friend! He doesn't talk much, but he is a great listener.

I made a friend! He doesn’t talk much, but he is a great listener.

Enjoying a lunch break on a lake.

Enjoying a lunch break on a lake.

Sunset looking across Lake Champlain after our ferry ride from New York to Vermont. As a new friend in NY joked, "what's the best thing about Vermont? The view of New York!"

Sunset looking across Lake Champlain after our ferry ride from New York to Vermont. As a new friend in NY joked, “what’s the best thing about Vermont? The view of New York!”

Seaplane View of Fall Colors in the Adirondacks

Lake and fall colors reflected.

Lake and fall colors reflected.

We hadn’t planned to spend the day boating and flying above lakes in the Adirondacks. It just worked out that way. Bike touring has a way of creating the unexpected though, and since we rarely book a place to stay, we’re always open for a random adventure. And of course those are always the most fun!

The day started out on schedule. Up early and on the road through Old Forge in upstate New York on a beautiful fall day. A quick stop to enjoy some hot tea at a coffee shop and we’d be on our way, though we lingered a few extra minutes in the sun watching the city wake up.

A few hundred feet over the lake.

A few hundred feet over the lake.

Then Peter, an interesting gentleman in a suit jacket, struck up a conversation. Which turned into lunch at his boathouse, a ride in his old restored boat and a flight in his 1946 Piper Cub seaplane. We then toured the area with him followed by drinks at the country club and dinner in town, followed by trading stories in front of a fire and a night’s stay at his “camp,” as they call cabins in New England. (This can range from a one-room shack to a 15-room palace.)

Little diversions like this are the stuff of memories, even if we only made it five miles that day. The biking is fun and the scenery is great, but deep connections and the bond that develops with someone in just 24 hours is what it’s all about.

Dakota

P.S. Here’s a little video I took from the plane. Below are more pictures as well!

Chelsea and Peter cruising on the lake.

Chelsea and Peter cruising on the lake.

No right side window. Oh boy!

No right side window. Oh boy!

View from the Piper Cub. The little metal stick with the bend is attached to a cork and acts as the gas gauge. Old-school!

View from the Piper Cub. The little metal stick with the bend is attached to a cork and acts as the gas gauge. Old-school!

Fall colors looking good from the sky!

Fall colors looking good from the sky!

First Lake, part of an eight-lake chain. We stayed out at the tip of this peninsula.

First Lake, part of an eight-lake chain. We stayed out at the tip of this peninsula.

Ithaca is Gorges! A Detour through New York’s Finger Lakes

Riding alongside a Finger Lake.

Riding alongside a Finger Lake.

The Finger Lakes region in upstate New York is a hidden gem. People know the names of local famous institutions like Smith College in Geneva and Cornell in Ithaca, but I’d challenge them to place the towns on a map. (I sure couldn’t.) Beyond the prestigious schools, the landscape is stunning. Deep gorges split the earth and waterfalls cascade any way you turn your head. High viewpoints overlook lakes nestled into forested valleys. It’s lovely, which is why there are a ton of pictures in this post and I still couldn’t get them all in.

And we pedaled through all of it, traversing rolling hills along the lakes and then working hard up steep, long inclines to the spine of ridges. This was a 200 mile detour (see jog in map below) and was totally worth it. What’s 200 miles when you’ve gone 3,600? 20 hours of extra pedaling, that’s what!

3,600 miles and counting! The Finger Lakes region in the horseshoe underneath Lake Ontario.

3,600 miles and counting! The Finger Lakes region in the horseshoe at the far right beneath Lake Ontario.

Shaking up our bicycle touring muscles, we even did a hike. First of the bike tour, I might add. After camping out in Watkins Glen State Park, we rose early to beat the crowds and hiked up 800 steps (so says the brochure) laid into the deep, narrow gorge. Mist from 19 waterfalls creates a micro-climate at the bottom of the gorge and stone bridges add to a fairytale feel to create a magical setting. One of my favorite memories of our trip and a must-visit if you’re ever in the area. Cue huge string of photos. 🙂

Chelsea ascends a staircase in Watkins Glen.

Chelsea ascends a staircase in Watkins Glen.

Cascade Falls in Watkins Glen SP.

Cascade Falls in Watkins Glen SP.

Rocks and stuff in Watkins Glen.

Rocks and stuff in Watkins Glen.

Awww, we still like each other even after all this biking together!

Awww, we still like each other even after all this biking together!

Cool climes at the bottom of the Watkins Glen SP gorge make for tons of moss on the old stone work.

Cool climes at the bottom of the Watkins Glen SP gorge make for tons of moss on the old stone work.

The main event - cascading falls below a bridge in Watkins Glen State Park.

Cascading falls below a bridge in Watkins Glen State Park.

Another highlight of the area is Ithaca, a college town in the Finger Lakes. Sticking true to our new slowed-down plans, we only rode 30 miles from Watkins Glen and then decided to take a full day to explore. What a cool city! With only 30,000 people in a remote area of New York, Ithaca nailed all the basics for creating a vibrant, connected community. Their farmer’s market draws thousands of people, the city has its own car sharing system and the whole place just has a great feel to it. Gorges and waterfalls everywhere (hence the “Ithaca is Gorges” motto of the city), a vibrant downtown and quick access to the outdoors are other positives.

We ate ourselves into a food coma at Moosewood Restaurant, a breakfast place with vegan waffles (I totally got coconut ice cream on mine), plus Thai and Vietnamese food! Yeah yeah, so we ate out four times in a day and a half. We were forced to get back on the bikes to avoid starting to waddle…and I’d do it all over again.

How do you like these apples? Rolling by a Lake Ontario orchard with a (brief) break in the rain clouds.

How do you like these apples? Rolling by a Lake Ontario orchard with a (brief) break in the rain clouds.

I moved this eastern red spotted newt out of the road and Chelsea moved him over to a nearby pond. Ever the rescuer! (They can live for 12-15 years, but not in 42 degrees in a torpid state lying in a road.)

I moved this eastern red spotted newt out of the road and Chelsea moved him over to a nearby pond. Ever the rescuer! (They can live for 12-15 years, but not in 42 degrees in a torpid state lying in a road.)

I started this post sitting on a loveseat 20 feet from the shore of Lake Ontario as geese trumpeted their way south. I’m finishing it sitting by a fireplace in a stately 1873 B&B as the thermometer heads toward freezing. We’ll spend the next week deep into the Adirondack Mountains during what is forecast to be a perfect sunny week of pedaling as the leaves turn golden hues. With less than 350 miles to go, the lure to finish coupled with the sadness that I always get at the end of a journey is starting to creep into my mind at times. What’s next from here? We shall see, my friends, we shall see.

Peace out from Boonville, New York on this lovely first day of autumn!

Dakota

Buckling boards and ivy on a back country road.

Buckling boards and ivy on a back country road.

End of a hilly day in the Finger Lakes up a steep dirt road toward Farm Sanctuary (to be discussed later).

End of a hilly day in the Finger Lakes up a steep dirt road toward the Farm Sanctuary near Watkins Glen.

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Colors starting to pop on the climb through the Tug Hill wilderness between Lake Ontario and the Adirondacks. Next couple weeks are going to be gorgggges.

Colors starting to pop on the climb through the Tug Hill wilderness between Lake Ontario and the Adirondacks. Next couple weeks are going to be gorgggges.

Friday Eye Candy: Niagara Falls and the Erie Canal

Horseshoe Falls at Niagara thunders away with the huge old electrical power plant in the distance. We got soaked from the mist and spray even far away from it.

Horseshoe Falls at Niagara thunders away with the huge old electrical power plant in the distance. We got soaked from the mist and spray even far away from it.

Last week was our first in fall weather. Heading east from Niagara Falls, we crossed a ten-lane-but-none-for-bikes bridge out of Canada (in the commercial truck lane) and rejoined America on 9/11. Crazy to think it was 13 years ago that day that I left for college, hopping into my little Corolla to drive to California. Ah fall, a time for wistful nostalgia.

Days are cooler, down in the 60’s frequently during the day (37 this morning). The changing seasons has the dual effect of getting me stoked and also feeling ok chilling in a coffee shop sipping hot chai. Which is exactly what I’m doing as I write this, rows of Apple laptops arrayed around me.

These pictures are from a handful of days traversing from Niagara past Rochester, New York. Almost all of 150 miles were spent on fantastic gravel towpath trails along the Erie Canal, plus other canals. It’s such an extensive network that we could have followed them over 500 miles toward the coast of New York! Crunching along on tiny limestone chunks away from cars past tiny towns with names like Lockport, Middleport, and PortPortPort was a nice break from traffic and reaffirmed once again that off-road touring is something we have to try out.

Today we ride north from Ithaca toward Lake Ontario. We spent the last week doing a lovely 200 mile detour through the Finger Lakes region and now we’re heading toward the Adirondack Mountains! Time flies on.

Happy fall from Gimme! Coffee in upstate New York,

Dakota

A foggy, cool morning on a canal in NY.

A foggy, cool morning on a canal in NY.

A much-leaned-upon railing overlooking Horseshoe Falls in Niagara. Notice Chelsea's awesome tan lines from her cycling gloves!

A much-leaned-upon railing overlooking Horseshoe Falls in Niagara. Notice Chelsea’s awesome tan lines from her cycling gloves!

End of the Erie Canal! 150 miles of great gravel riding away from cars. Flat, but tough riding since the trail was soft from rain the night before.

End of the Erie Canal! 150 miles of great gravel riding away from cars. Flat, but tough riding since the trail was soft from rain the night before.

A tour boat cruises below American Falls, which carries about 1/10 the water of Horseshoe Falls.

A tour boat cruises below American Falls, which carries about 1/10 the water of Horseshoe Falls.

A bee nuzzles flowers in Niagara Falls.

A bee nuzzles flowers in Niagara Falls.

Sun cuts through above the canal trail.

Sun cuts through above the canal trail.

Leaping from a photo vantage point on an Erie Canal bridge.

Leaping from a photo vantage point on an Erie Canal bridge.

A farmer chugs off into the sunset after a day's work.

A farmer chugs off into the sunset after a day’s work.

The Best Way to Break Into a House, or Admiration without Ownership

One of my creepy pleasures is checking out the interiors of giant mansions. Sure, there are the scowling stone lions and spiky fences to dodge. But once inside, scoping out luxury kitchens and looking out from patios at ocean views is an easy way to feel rich. From clifftop compounds in Carmel to palatial estates on the shores of Lake Erie, exploring a different perspective on life is a fun retreat, if only for a moment.

Luckily, technology is on my side. I do all this with my phone’s Zillow app. (What, you thought I was breaking and entering?) And after flipping through the 15 photos and expressing indignation at the cost of the home, I’m ready to move on from this quick hit. Back to real life.

These days, I try to be appreciative rather than envious. Admiration need not equal desire. I can imagine an evening in a sitting room with a view that turns Medusa into a honey-tongued princess, but I don’t want the property taxes. The $100k kitchen is beautiful, but I don’t want the mortgage payment squelching my ability to work on my own terms and travel. No thanks on landscaper and housekeeper costs either. And I certainly don’t want to decorate it!

In the same vein, we can admire a gorgeous bird warbling in the wild without needing to possess it. I’ve had the desire, as many of us do, to see something beautiful and wish I owned it so that I could see it every day. Put that bird in a cage and it’s no longer amazing, just a shrouded voice behind bars.

Chelsea offers a baby bird water. Always a tough call to know when to intervene, but with the sun beating down on him in the middle of a giant lawn, we decided to help out.

Chelsea offers a baby bird  some water. Always a tough call to know when to intervene, but with the sun beating down on him in the middle of a giant lawn, we decided to help out.

I DO love ogling expensive sports cars. Chelsea, the more practical of our duo, can’t at all understand my admiration. To her, cars are all the same save one difference: the color. Beyond that, who cares? And she’s practically spot on. Admiring a hot red Ferrari is perhaps what any American lad does, but now the thought of owning one freaks me out. Just one more anchor.

Back in college when I thought an MLM was a smart path to riches (hindsight burns), I wasn’t this way. Using a technique the hucksters recommend to solidify my vision of a “successful” future, I drove my old Corolla a few hours inland from the California coast to test drive a new Lexus IS300. The smooth lines and upscale image of the purring car appealed to the “hey, look at me!” ego clamoring inside. I took that sweet car out, cranked the stereo and floored it on I-5 near Bakersfield. As I weaved through traffic, I dreamed of mansions and the fast cars that would fill my 10-car garage.

A sunset on the Waumee River in Ohio.

A sunset on the Waumee River in Ohio.

Well, those easy riches didn’t play out. It took me a couple more lessons to learn there wasn’t any way to make money except putting yourself out there, working your butt off and creating value for others every single day. And the reality is that I’m glad it didn’t work out and that expensive car-house combo never happened. You see, the more I test drive my current life of flexibility, of exploring the world and testing my own comfort zones, the less I want any physical object that doesn’t directly correlate to empowering those goals. Shiny cars and turreted homes are pretty, but they don’t accomplish that. And they certainly don’t help me invest in experiences, tick off items on my bucket list or allocate money for charity.

Traveling in our van made me appreciate the smaller amenities in life and bicycle touring upped that exponentially. I am so grateful for the comforts of a home, such as the lovely couch I am sitting on while writing this. A nice car (especially compared to a bike seat) feels like a luxury, yet I prefer hopping in a car-share vehicle and leaving the maintenance to the company who owns it. This isn’t about eschewing ownership completely, merely applying a conscious mental exercise to the purchase. The value delivered to our lives by owning our expensive camper van is worth the energy spent earning the money to buy it. And I can’t always win – the Sprinter sits moldering in Idaho as we bike tour, which irks me.

Perhaps there will again come a time when ownership of things resurfaces as an important aspect of my life. If or when it does, I hope I possess the clarity to see what value the object adds to my life and what the cost will be. These days, my goal when I see or experience something beautiful is to appreciate it. To be inspired by the comfort or happiness someone may find by experiencing it. And then I grin at the lions flanking the ornate gate and pedal on toward the next adventure.

Dakota

Waves and rockin' sunset in Barcelona, NY on Lake Erie.

Waves and rockin’ sunset in Barcelona, NY on Lake Erie. Photo credit Chelsea.

 

 

We Biked to Niagara Falls!

Niagara Falls

Holy smokin’ frijoles, how did that happen? Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York and back into Canada for the second time on this trip. I can’t believe we just biked to Niagara! I feel like a giant spring coiled in the Midwest and suddenly sproing we’re in New England overnight.

Last Friday night near Cleveland, as if to send us off into the Northeast, there was a gigantic thunderstorm that cleared the slate. We weathered it in the Riders Inn, a B&B 200 years old. The inn featured Underground Railroad tunnels beneath it and tales of hosting soldiers during the war of 1812 told by the salty woman who runs the place. We woke to a new world. Humidity, gone. Temps in the low 70’s beneath blue skies with birds chirping. Fair maidens at picturesque farm stands hand us grapes and frosty-cold beverages along Lake Erie’s coast as if we are royalty.

Vineyards along the shores of Lake Erie.

Vineyards along the shores of Lake Erie.

Now we slow the pace – fewer miles, more days off – to enjoy the scenery and fall colors as they flicker on in orange and red. Hitting New England in September was our plan from the start and we aren’t in a rush, so linger we shall. We are 3,200 miles and 75 days in with about 800 miles to go. We could do that in 15 days if we got after it, but we’re aiming for 30 days. Yessss. As a guy we talked to along the way said, “That doesn’t sound like a vacation, that sounds like work!” Time for more of a vacation feel. Our nerves and energy levels are frayed and beaten down from the last month in the Midwest and I think we’ve earned a respite!

And with that, I’m off to find a barrel so I can launch off the falls. Ciao for now, amigos.

Dakota

Fresh grapes at a farm stand? Yes please!

Fresh grapes at a farm stand? Yes please!

Fall is on the way!

Fall is on the way!

A full rainbow crests Horseshoe Falls at Niagara.

A full rainbow crests Horseshoe Falls at Niagara to welcome us.

No, Seriously, Where Are We Staying Tonight? A Day in Iowa, Part 2

Howdy! This is the second of two posts with some day-to-day detail. If you missed the first, maybe go check it out, though this can stand alone. I don’t write much about our daily life on the bikes, but wanted to in order to give a taste of our experience. Also, for all you new readers to the blog wondering how in tarnation we do this (we wonder too some days), I recommend the post on trip logistics and why we’re doing this tour.

Backroads of Nebraska.

Back country roads of the Midwest.

It’s hard to leave wonderful people we meet and stay with along the way. I always feels like yelling, “no, waaaaaait” as we’re pulled off into the distance. Places to go before it snows keeps our pedals spinning, so the next morning we departed from Mary and Ken’s home. The day soon found us pedaling off (and up) some of the steepest hills Not-Flat-Iowa could throw at us on another scorcher day.

Absorbed in an audiobook, I biked waaaay ahead and Chelsea took an inadvertent turn. I always wait at intersections, but this time (a trip first!) it didn’t work out. I should probably mention that we didn’t know which town we were heading to that day since we were just going to follow pavement and avoid gravel until we were somewhere worth stopping. Which means Chelsea, when she was five miles off route, couldn’t answer a nice local cyclist when he asked where she was headed. (Maine is a vague answer when you’re in Iowa.) Did I mention we didn’t have cell phone reception?

WHATever. We figured it out, even if we lost a couple hours and added mileage to our day. Erick, the cyclist, drove around for an hour on country roads making sure we found one another. (Thanks man!) A perfect example of the giant heart and generosity of every single person we met in Iowa, not to mention throughout the Midwest. At least the adults are – three teenagers later that day stared at us like we were hippos on skateboards when we asked them where we could refill our water bottles in their tiny town. Hooligans…

Early morning with 50 giant emoticons on a farmer's fence cheering us on.

Early morning with 50 giant emoticons on a farmer’s fence cheering us on.

This long day on the bikes turned to dusk with our muses the fireflies blinking in the descending darkness. We had a couple choices. Two miles (that we’d backtrack the next morning) on a rutted gravel road to a showerless campground OR pushing on through in the dark to the next small town an hour distant. We opted to continue on the pavement toward Greenfield, Iowa, just south of Des Moines, blinking red taillights alerting approaching drivers. This may sound terrible, yet it was a magical evening and our first time riding in the pitch dark. A nice breeze, sparse traffic and the fireflies popping up around us in the quiet night turned this into an almost meditative experience. Yep, even 65 miles in and exhausted from literally more elevation in one day than we rode coming over the pass in Glacier! (Again, Iowa is not flat. I’m permanently scarred.) Sometimes i’s the unexpected that forms the strongest memories of a trip and this was no exception.

Wind turbines spin on the horizon at dusk headed toward Greenfield. Hundreds upon hundreds of these are scattered across the Midwest.

Wind turbines spin on the horizon as night falls as we head toward Greenfield. Hundreds upon hundreds of these are scattered across the Midwest.

Arriving in Greenfield after 9 pm and finally getting a cell signal, I called the lone hotel in town.  Sunday night in a small town, noooo problem…except for the tour bus (in Iowa?!) that just booked the entire hotel. OH NO. Practically begging, I pleaded with the hotel clerk to help us out. “Well, we do have the opera house next door that we have a deal with for times like this…” I pictured a dusty janitor’s closet but took her up on checking it out. Nope! We scored and wound up in a historic opera house replete with a three room suite and the balcony above the stage just outside our door. PLUS a turret in our bedroom overlooking the courthouse in the city square. One of the coolest places we’ve stayed (this trip or others) and another serendipitous experience. It sure beat pitching a tent in the city park.

The historic Greenfield Opera house. I'm in the turret at top left.

The historic Greenfield Opera house. I’m in the turret at top left. I hauled our bikes up the steep stairs  in the bottom right.

Corn and hay, hay and corn...

Corn and hay, hay and corn…

We need to let it all hang out there sometimes to experience our edge. It doesn’t always work out, and it’s best to be prepared with all the gear and skills to survive, yet the edge of our comfort zone is where the magic happens. In its own way, everything will work out. I’ve had more thrilling or adventurous days traveling with Chelsea and we’ve certainly experienced more scenic landscapes. That wasn’t the important part of this day. By leaning headlong into the fray, however tame by some standards, we further reinforced our trust in one another and solidified our confidence in humanity and whatever force is out there watching out for us.

Someday, I’ll think back to these two evenings in Iowa and the words from a Mason Jennings song will ring out in my head: “The past is beautiful, like the darkness between the fireflies. Beautiful like the darkness between the fireflies.” I’ll close my eyes and be there next to Chelsea on the old family farm in the middle of nowhere or humming along on bikes in the inky stillness with our firefly and cicada cheerleaders whooping it up. And I’ll smile and know we reaped serendipity’s reward those days in the rolling hills of Iowa.

Here’s to discovering  your edge, wherever and whatever it might be, and pushing past it every so often.

Dakota

A great hotel in the middle of nowhere! The Hotel Greenfield is definitely worth a stay.

A great hotel in the middle of nowhere! The Hotel Greenfield is definitely worth a stay. Here we are well rested, stuffed from the great hotel breakfast and ready for another day of battle.

Our favorite rest break: eating cold watermelon in the shade.

Our favorite rest break: eating cold watermelon in the shade. Did you know it helps to relieve sore muscles, according to Dr. Michael Gregor from nutritionfacts.org? Refreshing AND helpful!

Until next time, off we pedal.

Until next time, off we pedal.

Where Are We Staying Tonight? A Day in Iowa, Part 1

Zooming along through, you guessed it, corn!

Zooming along through, you guessed it, corn!

It’s nice to know where you’re going to sleep at night. There’s comfort in planning, security in reservations. And yet the adventure of no plan or no clue where your head will lay has its charm. During this bike tour, I’ve felt exposed to the whim of the elements and people we meet and yet completely at ease, plan or no plan. The kindness and generosity of strangers reinforces my faith in humanity, strengthening the feeling that riding without a route will turn out ok.

I dig the unknown and the surprises (good and bad) that accompany serendipity. I’ve always laughed when the weather gets so bad it seems like a joke – horizontal rain, for example – and revel in the edge I discover when things get, well, “interesting.” Missed a turn? No big deal. Planning our trip day-by-day? Sign me up. Lucky for me, I have a partner in Chelsea who both embraces this ethos and also has a healthy sense of self-preservation. She balances my “just do it” attitude, though I frequently battle her like a defiant two-year-old. I know some of you are thinking, “Poor Chelsea,” and you are right…but not all the time. After all, embracing the open road without a plan can result in some of the most satisfying adventures out there. It can be more of a rollercoaster ride of events and emotions, but such is our way. She did get on a plane to Prague for our month-long first date, after all!

The product of the cornfields rests on an old fence board.

The product of the cornfields rests on an old fence board.

This is the story of two serendipitous days in Iowa. They are snapshots, but are representative of our general experience on tour: No plans and nothing to guide us save a convenience store map and the sun on our backs. Since it’s just after Labor Day and we all have work to do, I’m breaking it into two bite-sized stories and will post the other later this week.

Au Revoir Nebraska

Our two rest days in Omaha were perfect. They featured time with good friends (thanks Holman family!), a decadent dinner at a new vegan restaurant called Modern Love and even tracking down old homes that Chelsea’s maternal grandma had lived in to chat with the current owners. We left the city on a sultry and humid August day to head further east. On our way out, we watched a parade south of Omaha, talked to a guy from Florida who almost did somersaults he was so stoked about our trip, ate lunch next to the Missouri River and then crossed it on a narrow bridge. The attendant waved us past the $1 cyclist toll for free, smoke ringlets from her cigarette marking the end of our time in Nebraska.

An amazing meal at Modern Love. Isa, the chef and owner, lived in Portland, OR for awhile. She runs an amazing vegan blog, theppk.com (Post Punk Kitchen). So great to find her in Omaha at the restaurant, which had only been open a week. SO GOOD. I'll stop raving about it now...

An amazing meal at Modern Love. Isa, the chef and owner, lived in Portland, OR for awhile. She runs an amazing vegan blog, theppk.com (Post Punk Kitchen). So great to find her in Omaha at the restaurant, which had only been open a week. SO GOOD. I’ll stop raving about it now…

A great stay in Omaha with the Holman family!

A great stay in Omaha with the Holman family!

Onward into Iowa, whose first surprise hit hard right over the bridge: Nothing in the state is flat! (Joe P, I know you could have told me that.) The country roads are a gridded array of steep, long hills (paved and gravel) that cascade across the countryside through corn and soybean fields. In all our time on the road, there have been only four days I would call “flat,” and those of course featured the scourge of cyclists, Headwinds From Hell.

We enjoyed a short stint on a nice, shaded gravel trail called the Wabash Trace, passing four guys doing a weekend bike trip with a boombox blasting classic rock. Unfortunately, the trail ran north-south, as many of the rails-to-trails seem to do. We soon continued east in search of Chelsea’s paternal great-grandparents’ gravestone in tiny Henderson, Iowa. With some help from a nice woman, we tracked down the tree-shaded cemetery a mile out of town, views of fields dropping away from the hill. Chelsea laid fresh-picked flowers on their graves (Victor and Inez Norton) and we sat together on the windy knoll contemplating the past and this winding path of life we’re lucky enough to experience together. To have biked 2,000+ miles to be there was amazing, especially since it wasn’t part of the plan until a few days prior.

A bridge on the Wabash Trace Trail.

A bridge on the Wabash Trace Trail.

Making Friends

Back in tiny Henderson, population 185, Chelsea searches for someone who knows her family. She knocks on the door of a guy who says, “Oh, you need to talk to Ken and Mary,” and points across the street. Tapping on their door, we’re warmly ushered in to chat with the most connected residents in town before we even tell them who we are or what we’re up to. Mary and Ken are a delightful couple who seem to know everyone. Chelsea is quickly on the phone with Wanda, who played as a kid with her great aunt’s kids while living across the street from the family farm where Chelsea’s grandpa grew up. Mary has every phone number memorized and is a master connector, dialing up a couple more people for Chelsea to chat with.

Chelsea, Ken, Mary, Wanda and friend in Henderson.

Chelsea, Ken, Mary, Wanda and friend in Henderson.

Meanwhile, Ken regales me with a quick wit and shows me his impressive knowledge of ham radios in the Man Cave at the back of the house. He also tells great stories, such as when he worked at Nebraska Furniture Center and Warren Buffett, who owns the store, was checking up on his investment. On his way out, he asked Ken, “Hey, do you have $5 you could spot me for lunch?” The Omaha billionaire didn’t even have the cash to grab a burger across the street!

Then we hop in their car, meeting Wanda along the way, and everyone heads out to the old family farm, surprising a Russian woman who lives there. As they toured the farmhouse, I saw fireflies for the first time in my life on the old homestead as they flickered on and off in the dark, twinkling by the barn as the sun dipped low and glowed red on the horizon.

The old homestead at sunset.

The old homestead at sunset.

A visit to Wanda’s house follows and then Ken and Mary invite us to stay the night, where we burned the midnight oil trading stories. Their good cheer and warm hospitality kicked off our stay in Iowa. Another example of embracing the unknown resulting in great friends and memories that will last a lifetime.

Tomorrow, Part 2! We’ll be hitting the shores of Lake Erie, where we’re staying with a buddy I ran Hood to Coast with on Labor Day Weekend four years ago. Full circle connection, as usual.

Ciao for now,

Dakota

P.S. Happy birthday to Chelsea’s brother Jesse! Thinking of you today and much love from Grand Rapids, Ohio.

Visiting Chelsea's great-grandparents' hometown of Henderson, Iowa. Any place with a giant smiley face barn is ok in my book!

Visiting Chelsea’s great-grandparents’ hometown of Henderson, Iowa. Any place with a giant smiley face barn is ok in my book! Any woman with a smile like that is even better. 🙂

A sign in Madison, Nebraska with distances to cities all over the place. 1,690 to Portland! This moment feels so long ago...

A sign in Madison, Nebraska with distances to cities all over the place. 1,690 to Portland! This moment feels so long ago…

I know you love these shots... All the rain in the Midwest has kept the flowers firing and the landscapes green.

I know you love these shots… My two favorite subjects! All the thunderstorms in the Midwest has kept the flowers firing and the landscapes green.

Chugging Across the Midwest

Rows of GMO corn in the lovely rolling hills of Nebraska.

Rows of GMO corn in the lovely rolling hills of Nebraska.

We crossed the Mississippi! 2,500 miles into this journey already. It’s flying by, albeit ever-so-slowly some days. Every mile still takes effort; each hill is a challenge. Today is Day 62, exactly two months into our bike tour. And where the heck, you ask, are we? Northern Indiana! In the last few weeks, we’ve plowed through Nebraska, Iowa and Illinois, putting the leg power to the cranks and making some great time. Snow in New England waits for no bike tourist, as the experts say, and so we pedal on.

There was little time to write in the last couple weeks – just too many adventures, people to meet and renting our house to take care of. Which is why this is a short “we’re still alive” post with a few pictures. I’ll get a longer one posted after Labor Day, which will find us well into Ohio and on the shores of Lake Erie.

Chelsea flanked by corn on either side on a country road somewhere in central Illinois.

Chelsea flanked by corn on either side on a country road somewhere in central Illinois.

Thanks to all of you for the quick texts, emails and comments on the blog with notes of encouragement or just to say hi. We so appreciate it. Just so you know, I’m taking a hiatus from social media (all apps deleted from my phone) to stay more present, which means the little tidbits and pictures of our trip will not all be relayed. It was a hard call, but one I think is important for me. I’ll still put each blog post up on Facebook since a lot of people follow it that way.

On the banks of the mighty Mississippi!

On the banks of the mighty Mississippi at the Iowa-Illinois border!

Why shut off Facebook and Instagram? They were starting to feel like noise, a pull away from the present and an expectation (of myself) to deliver fun and interesting content. As much as I want to share every funny and beautiful moment from the trip, sharing was distracting. The blog is a ton of energy by itself in the midst of this journey and social media was taking away from the experience of traveling. I’ve taken breaks before (a month off in January earlier this year) and loved it. This stems from that, but the feeling deepened two weeks into a personal challenge to meditate every morning in August.

With that, I bid you adieu! Tomorrow we cross into Eastern Standard Time. We’ve mapped out a timeline for our trip and expect to reach the shores of the Atlantic Ocean in Maine by early October through some gorgeous, fall-colored countryside. New England, here we come! Have a lovely Labor Day y’all.

Dakota

Chelsea rides through a field of soy in Illinois.

Chelsea rides through fields of soybeans in Illinois. A 70 mile day in 95 degrees and 90% humidity…woo! We won’t miss the humidity, that’s for sure.

Bicycling on the Mickelson Trail in South Dakota

Crushed limestone of the Mickelson.

Riding the crushed limestone gravel of the Mickelson Trail.

Wow, the last ten days have flown by! Go go go… We’re already practically across Iowa, even with a pause for a couple days to hang out with a high school friend in Omaha, Nebraska. I’ve had zero time to write for a variety of reasons, but before South Dakota is too far behind us, here are some photos from our time touring in the Black Hills.

After weeks of cycling, primarily with cars whizzing by, getting off pavement and away from vehicles (including the Sturgis Rally contingent) is as refreshing as a dip into a cold creek on a summer’s day. The Black Hills themselves, an eruption of peaks and tree-lined valleys in midst of the rolling northern plains, are beautiful and remind me of the forested regions of the Pacific Northwest. (I barely remember what a pine tree looks like these days. A corn stalk with spiky needles?)

The trail cuts through a number of cool old tunnels from the railroad days.

The trail cuts through a number of cool old tunnels from the railroad days.

Enter the George S. Mickelson Trail, 109 miles of packed limestone gravel through the heart of the Hills. It’s an old railroad bed from mining days that South Dakota turned into one of the nicest rails-to-trails I’ve seen. If you ever vist Rushmore, definitely get out on a bike (Rabbit Bicycles in Hill City rents them) and check out the trail! I won’t belabor details – these guys have the info.

Warning: If you start from Spearfish and ride up the canyon, it is a THIRTY mile climb to start out, with more elevation than climbing over Glacier. That said, it was beautiful and totally worth it. (We sure aren’t taking the flat and easy way across this country though.) Our route traced from north to south, with camping on Forest Service land one night and snagging a cozy cabin another. Can’t recommend it highly enough if you’re in the area! I’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking…and here’s a video from the trail.

Tunnels of trees along the trail.

Tunnels of trees along the trail.

And with that, I bid you adieu. In one more day, we’ll cross out of Iowa into Illinois! Ticking off the miles and heading further east through the Midwest. The weather is hot and humid and life is good.

Onward!

Dakota

Chelsea watches a big herd of cows and their new offspring.

Chelsea watches a big herd of cows and their new offspring.

In some places, the trail is hewn through solid rock like this.

In some places, the trail is hewn through solid rock like this.

Lots of old bridges along the way!

Lots of old bridges along the way!

Chelsea cruises a calm section of road while I rampage on the Mickelson Trail.

Chelsea cruises a calm section of road while I rampage on the Mickelson Trail.

Chelsea approaches a gate on the trail.

Chelsea approaches a gate on the trail.

Cold water and a nice rest stop in Spearfish Canyon.

Cold water and a nice rest stop in Spearfish Canyon.

Coming out of the southern end of the trail as it flattens out and opens into plains.

Coming out of the southern end of the trail as it flattens out and opens into plains.

NOT on the trail... A side trip to the Crazy Horse monument, where they let you keep rocks from the project. I took six to weigh down my bike. Training weight!

Not on the trail… A side trip to the Crazy Horse monument, where they let you keep rocks from the project. I took six to weigh down my bike. Training weight!

One more of Mt. Rushmore. My friend Loren happened to be coming through the Black Hills while driving from San Francisco to Boston. So C and I jumped on board for a tour of the Rushmore area in a *gasp* CAR. Given all the motorcycles out that day, it was the right call! And super fun to hang with a friend along our trip.

Not on the trail… One more of Mt. Rushmore. My friend Loren happened to be coming through the Black Hills while driving from San Francisco to Boston. So C and I jumped on board for a tour of the Rushmore area in a *gasp* CAR. Given all the motorcycles out that day, it was the right call! And super fun to hang with a friend along our trip. Photo credit to awesome Kathy.

Faces from the Road: Mike from Nebraska

Chelsea cuts through fog on a quiet, eerie morning in the Sand Hills of Nebraska.

Chelsea cuts through fog on a quiet, eerie morning in the Sand Hills of Nebraska. Sunflowers are my only foreground out here, SORRY.

“You know why they call this God’s country? Cuz no one else wants it!” joked Mike from Wood Lake, Nebraska, population 64.

Chelsea and I are out of the rolling Sand Hills of Nebraska and into griddle-flat corn and cattle country. The kind of territory where you spot a green oasis of shady trees, then ride an hour to reach them. The air is wet with humidity, a welcome change from dry Montana, and smells like Florida, a sweet and pungent odor of crops and grass. Every evening, we watch thunderstorms gather with a mighty force before smiting the earth with pounding hail, gusting wind and lashing rain.

This is a taciturn part of the U.S. People are friendly – everyone waves at us – and yet reserved. Tiny towns, often less than 100 people, are quiet and bleak with boarded up windows and “For Lease” signs everywhere. Their residents are people whose faces reveal that making a living here takes hard work and a steely countenance.

Our buddy Mike.

Our buddy Mike.

We ate lunch seated next to Mike in a greasy spoon diner, our total bill $5.28 for two plates of hashbrowns and veggies. Outside, he gave us a hard time for not having an engine on our bikes, his features masked by a giant beard and cowboy hat tilted low.

Mike was pissed off to miss the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally for the first time in 35 years due to a hay harvest delayed by rain. Between spraying rockets of spittle from the chaw packed into his lip, he did have a sense of humor though.

Mike runs operations on thousands of acres of hay and cattle land. “I was hired on a 30 day contract. That was 27 years ago. I keep asking the bosses when they’re gonna hire me full-time and they say there ain’t enough work. I tell them that’s good cuz I ain’t done 30 days worth of work yet anyway.”

Riding through Nebraska.

Riding through Nebraska.

Nebraska feels honest and real. The landscapes are surprisingly beautiful, a welcome change from the dry emptiness of SE Montana. We’re digging the trip through America’s heartland and visits with down-to-earth people along the way. One more day in Nebraska and then we’re into the rolling hills of Iowa!

Pedaling on,

Dakota

Fog and farm in Nebraska.

Fog and farm in Nebraska.

Cattle brands ring the ceiling of a cafe in Nebraska. 400 of them!

Cattle brands from various ranches ring the ceiling of a cafe in Nebraska. 400 different brands!