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Desert Solitude – A Week in Joshua Tree

Bracing for a storm in the park.

Bracing for a storm in the park.

Joshua Tree National Park is one of those timeless landscapes that hard-wires me to my inner core. Towering starry skies where the wisdom of light years rains down. Crisp silent mornings as the sun brightens dew drops on Cholla cacti barbs and sparks fires on giant weathered granite boulders scattered to the horizon. And don’t forget the Joshua trees themselves, those Dr. Seussian cousins of the Yucca with their branching arms and unmistakable silhouette. The park is a stunning place to explore physically on foot, bike or vertically via rock climbing. Or it’s simply a place to sit and think deeply, and to laugh with new friends as camp fire shadows dance on the granite walls.

Subtleties are the binding agent for the park’s magnificence. Like a good concerto, the silence informs the sounds. A cool breeze whispering to the rocks. A solo hummingbird staking out his Ocotillo plant or a desert tortoise plodding back to his hideout in the sandy ground. Similar to the redwood forests of Northern California and the limitless Pacific waves, deserts carve out the oceanic feeling in my soul, that feeling of being part of something infinitely bigger, older and wiser than myself. They remind me of my status as a speck suspended in this giant universe, tugging Muir-like with my actions at every other strand of this web.

I think we all crave a sense of place and history, which is likely why new suburbs make us feel uneasy. A collection of homes, dropped from above as if by a lead-addled king’s whim. They lack any sense of creation or connection to the landscape and leave us adrift and lost in cul-de-sacs of desperation. The interwoven facets of a desert, evolved and battle-tested through eons of blasting weather, from the out-stretched arms of the Joshua tree down to the wood rat nesting at the base of its trunk, are a foundation of truth where we can plant our feet and draw a source of strength straight from the bedrock to clear away the haze of day-to-day worry beneath clear blue skies.

Solace and peace wash over me in places like this. Business deals raking my mind over the coals are superseded by peaceful slumber after a walk under the Milky Way. While we visited, there was a fantastic two days of thunderstorms that piled dark thunderheads high in the sky and raged wind and water, cleansing the land and reasserting just how powerful nature is. Yet the Joshua tree, starting as a small seedling on a sheltering nurse log, grow in a hostile environment and stand for centuries beneath baking sun, gusting wind and occasionally pouring rain, all with shallow roots no larger than a finger. My life is so easy in comparison. I am lucky to breathe deeply and take in a sunset vista after a boulder-hopping ascent to the top of a valley and take these centuries of effort in.

We’ve been on the road for four months exactly as I write this and yet the journey, wherever it takes us, is just unfolding. Traipsing is “to travel about without apparent plan, with or without a purpose.” My time in the high desert presented beautiful hikes and bikes rides, scintillating sunsets and limitless night skies. Beyond that, it yielded important clarity for me, blooming in sync with the rain-soaked desert at the end of our visit. I’m feeling new focus and priorities in my life, an upswell I’ve kept at bay with excuses too long. The time is now, always, to pursue passion and challenge myself, excuses be damned. This trip, originally slated to end March 1st, continues. Onward into the unknown we tread!

Ciao from Julian, quaint city in the mountains just northeast of San Diego famous for delicious apple pies. In the words of my good friend Ryan, NOMNOMNOM.

Dakota

P.S. More pictures below!

Turbines in the windy valley west of Palm Springs.

Turbines in the windy valley west of Palm Springs.

Touring around the park our favorite way.

Touring around the park our favorite way.

Five miles into the Boy Scout Trail looking north out of Joshua Tree.

Five miles into the Boy Scout Trail looking north out of Joshua Tree.

Tiny black flowers popping up along the Boy Scout Trail.

Tiny black flowers popping up along the Boy Scout Trail.

A misty and mysterious feel to the park during a rain storm.

A misty and mysterious feel to the park during a rain storm.

Early sun-watching session after climbing up some granite in the middle of the desert.

Early sun-watching session after climbing up some granite in the middle of the desert.

Halfway through the 30 mile Palm Canyon epic - desert single track for hours!

Halfway through the 30 mile Palm Canyon epic – desert single track for hours!

Hundreds of cholla cacti in a giant garden in the middle of Joshua Tree.

Hundreds of cholla cacti in a giant garden in the middle of Joshua Tree.

Here's what we look like these days!

Here’s what we look like these days!

Cholla cacti buds after a rain storm.

Cholla cacti buds after a rain storm.

Following the butterflies on a hike.

Following the butterflies on a hike.

One needs to be careful biking in the desert!

One needs to be careful biking in the desert!

Lights out in Hidden Valley as the sun dips low.

Lights out in Hidden Valley as the sun dips low.

A starry night in Joshua Tree.

A starry night in Joshua Tree.

Three Weeks in Santa Cruz

When our dear friends Jamie and Evan told us they were moving to Santa Cruz from Portland, not only were we super sad, we didn’t quite get it. How could anyone leave Portland, an amazing city with so many fantastic people, forward-thinking projects, great food, not to mention bike jousting or guys riding unicycles wearing kilts and playing bagpipes…random Portlandia scenes, ya know.

Panorama in Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz cliffs.

Now, we get it. Santa Cruz is a perfect blend of city, ocean, forest, and fun, all smashed into a sunny pocket of Central California that just served up a seriously awesome holiday break for us. Here’s the story of three excellent weeks in a few sentences and lots of pictures!

Looking back during a beach walk.

Looking back during a beach walk.

-Riding the Ohlone Bluff trail on with Chelsea and her family. It’s a rutted dirt road framed on the west by cliffs that slip down into the water of the Pacific, brussel sprout farms to the east, and red tailed hawks soaring in the wind above us. Chelsea’s parents, who will forever be tougher than us, rode 18 miles on town comfort bikes with no suspension (or padded shorts) on the rough, bouncy road. I don’t know how they do it!

Hamming it up somewhere along the Ohlone Bluff trail (C photo credit)

Hamming it up somewhere along the Ohlone Bluff trail (C photo credit)

This trip is all about teamwork and a cheery outlook!

This trip is all about teamwork and a cheery outlook!

-Hours of Settlers of Catan with the family eating food, trading laughs and commodities, and trying not to team up on Chelsea’s brother Jesse too much.

Settlers of Catan. Game time with the family!

Settlers of Catan. Game time with the family!

-Mountain biking. I adore Santa Cruz trails! Right out our door, I could ride a mile to single track trails that led up through grasslands into scrub oak and then into redwood trails twisting around gnarled limbs and stumps. Unreal fun – I can’t get enough of it! Eleven rides in three weeks.

Sunset ride at Wilder Ranch north of Santa Cruz.

Sunset ride at Wilder Ranch north of Santa Cruz.

Exploring the Demonstration Forest in Nisene Marks State Park with Evan.

Exploring the Demonstration Forest in Nisene Marks State Park with Evan.

Cruising trails with new friend Craig in Nisene Marks State Park.

Cruising trails with new friend Craig in Nisene Marks State Park.

-Watching Monarch butterflies start their winter migration. They start at Natural Bridges State Park clumped in frozen masses waiting for the morning sun to hit their wings. Then they power up like little batteries, their wings acting as solar panels. Soon they are flittering about in the light, heading northeast eventually as the weather warms up.

A bundle of monarchs in the morning sun.

A bundle of monarchs in the morning sun.

-Walking West Cliff Drive, a long ocean-side path looking south across Monterey Bay. We watched seals, dolphins, sea lions, pelicans, and cormorants mingle and play on the water. Along with what seemed like hundreds of surfers out on Steamers Lane by the lighthouse, bobbing up and down.

Chelsea and her family watch seals on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

Chelsea and her family watch seals on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

A pair of seagulls hanging out.

A pair of seagulls hanging out.

Ice plants and Santa Cruz homes.

Ice plants and Santa Cruz homes.

Sunset on the cliffs.

Sunset on the cliffs.

Sunset on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

Sunset on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

Coastal view north of Santa Cruz on a family walk.

Coastal view north of Santa Cruz on a family walk.

 

A cool arrangement of keys in a local Santa Cruz shop.

A cool arrangement of keys in a local Santa Cruz shop.

-Days and evenings spent hanging with Jamie and Evan. Laughing our heads off at random things and helping them move into their new home after packing them up in Portland. Hanging on their deck watching deer in the field below or listening to owls hooting in the trees. Great friends are hard to find and we are lucky to have these guys in our lives and can’t wait to see them again.

Hanging with Jamie, Evan and their two fun doggies.

Hanging with Jamie, Evan and their two fun doggies.

 And with that, Santa Cruz is behind us. Adios for now good friends and great times. We shall certainly return!

We are currently exploring the wonders of Big Sur and absolutely loving it. What a place. I’ll leave you with a teaser picture…high up on Highway 1 from our van this morning. Room with a view!

View from our window on Highway 1 this morning.

View from our window on Highway 1 this morning.