California Favorites – Mountain and Road Biking, Hiking, and Places to Eat

We spent almost four months touring the coast of California from late November through March this year. There are lots of travel guides out there for reference info about the state, but if you’re interested, below is a list in no particular order of some favorite trails (mountain biking and hiking/running) and places to eat in California. I hope you get the chance to experience them some time! Favorite mountain biking trails out of many rides. This practically isn’t even possible, so I’ll just list a few favorites, north to south!

  1. Santa Cruz: UCSC/Wilder Ranch, and Nisene Marks/Demonstration Forest. While you’re in Nisene Marks, check out West Ridge on a weekday when the rangers aren’t out. (Shhh.) So close to town, so fun and flowy under giant redwoods on pristine trails. Amazing. For family fun, head north from town on the Ohlone Bluffs Trail. Pictures in my ode to Santa Cruz post.
  2. San Luis Obispo: Poly Canyon and Montana de Oro (thanks for the tour Cal Poly profs). Why didn’t I mountain bike in college?! Dry and rocky, with some great technical descending.

    Chelsea showing off her skills at Morro Bay.

    Chelsea showing off her skills at Morro Bay.

  3. Santa Barbara: Romero Canyon. For amazing views of the ocean, you can’t beat the top half of this ride on fast singletrack. Keep riding past the Romero Canyon descent all the way to the top, then ride the whole thing down. Then put on the full-face and pads for a rocky creekside descent that keeps your mind and body awake! (For other SB classics, this local bike shop was a great resource.)

    Climbing to the top of Romero.

    Climbing to the top of Romero.

  4. Los Angeles: Surprised by this one! North side of the city in the Santa Ana mountains=wow! El Prieto, Altadena, Potato Mountain area. Altadena features sharp switchbacks right along a cliff with a view of downtown L.A. I just about froze my jaw in a permanent grin coming down this one! Honorable mention to the epic views over L.A. from up above Malibu Creek State Park.

    L.A. backdrop halfway up Altadena.

    L.A. backdrop halfway up Altadena.

  5. Palm Springs: The Palm Canyon Epic. DO THIS RIDE. But go with a tour guide because it’s an adventure. Thank you Jima at Joshua Tree Bike Shop for being the tour guide for this pine-to-palms awesomeness with 6,500 feet of descending and 3,000 feet of climbing on singletrack. One of the most memorable rides I’ve ever done.

    Jima shredding some downhill on the Palm Canyon Epic.

    Jima shredding some downhill on the Palm Canyon Epic.

  6. San Diego: Noble Canyon. I’ve ridden this twice now, and it’s just as good as everyone says it is. Camp at Laguna Campground and ride the stuff at the top too, also super fun. Honorable mention goes to the northern part of Mission Trails (Three Barrels ride) for easy access and fun, fast descents.

    Jesse and Jen riding on Laguna Mountain.

    Jesse and Jen riding on Laguna Mountain.

Favorite walking/hiking/running areas (note that many of the mountain biking trails above were great for hiking too):

  1. Beaches: Not even possible to list all these. As my fav rapper from high school Tupac says, “it’s all good, from Diego to the Bay.” And beyond to the north, I might add. Pick a beach and explore! We were traveling through in the winter and it was oh-so-quiet on most beaches.

    Sunset at Andrew Molera State Park.

    Sunset at Andrew Molera State Park.

  2. Boy Scout Trail in both Jedediah Smith and Joshua Tree State Parks: two very different experiences with the same name. The first under giant redwoods, the second in the high desert with Joshua Trees.
  3. Prairie Creek State Park in the redwoods near Arcata – hike up Fern Canyon and into the redwoods. A great 6-8 mile loop.
  4. Santa Cruz: Nisene Marks, Big Basin and Henry Powell State Parks. Pick a hike and explore!
  5. Monterey: Point Lobos is a do-not-miss natural reserve right on the coast. Sweeping views, wildlife, great trails. Don’t skip this one.

    A cozy bay in Point Lobos.

    A cozy bay in Point Lobos.

  6. Big Sur: Soberanes will wow you with the climb and the sweeping view at the top. Andrew Molera Park for sheer variety and beauty. Julia Pffeifer Burns for the ridge hike with soaring condors sweeping by. Note: If you have a camper van, you can pull off the side of Highway 1 and camp there. Free two million dollars views!

    Hiking to the rock at Morro Bay.

    Hiking to the rock at Morro Bay.

Favorite road bike rides:

  1. San Francisco: Across Golden Gate Bridge and up into the Marin Headlands. What a scenic ride!
  2. Highway 1 through Big Sur: Wow. Good climbs, amazing views, and traffic wasn’t too bad…though it was January!

    Dan cruising Highway 1 in Big Sur.

    Dan cruising Highway 1 in Big Sur.

  3. Los Angeles: any of the car-free trails are so great! San Gabriel River Trail, Los Angeles River Path, Santa Ana River Trail, and others. 30-40 miles each way with maybe a couple stops the entire way and no cars. Can’t beat that in a city feared for its traffic! We did the SGRT and LARP trails as an overnight bike tour from Azusa to Long Beach.
  4. Oceanside to San Diego: A great 35 mile cruise along the ocean, much of it off Highway 1. We took Amtrak north to Anaheim and did a nice easy three-day bike tour south and highly recommend it! This last section was my favorite.

Restaurants and other food hot spots, especially for those in the plant-based/vegan realm (not all below restaurants fit that mold though!). Yelp was our Goddess of Dining for seeking out great places to eat, and California served up some amazing meals. A shout out to Nicole and Alex in L.A. for cooking one of the best meals we had in the entire state! Those vegan enchiladas are our new favorite, and the nacho “cheese” sauce is a big winner too. Here are the meals that come to mind:

  1. Julia’s in Monterey. Amazing, cozy dinner spot.
  2. Wild Flour Bakery in Occidental. AMAZING cinnamon rolls and bread. Do not miss this. 380+ reviews on Yelp in the middle of nowhere can’t be wrong.

    Too many choices!

    Too many choices!

  3. Goodlife Bakery and Coffee Shop in Mendocino. #1 place to hang on a rainy day. Good tea, pastries, ambiance. We sat and watched the world go down during our first rainy day on the coast.
  4. True Food Kitchen  – a chain, but some of the best food we had in San Diego. Try the winter salad. Divine.
  5. Cafe Brasil in Santa Cruz. We only went here four times! 🙂 YUM. Get here early on weekends or anytime during the week.
  6. Nachos in Big Sur. HUGE. The full order is a dinner portion for two.
  7. Eureka! in San Luis Obispo. Best veggie burgers we’ve ever had. Went back to try again and were equally impressed. And it’s a (small) franchise?! Well done folks.
  8. The Natural Sisters Cafe in Joshua Tree for some a-mazing vegan carrot cake. Large portions of this were eaten each time we drove through town.
  9. So many others! Trust the Yelp collective wisdom and explore. You can’t go wrong in California.

Hopefully these tidbits are helpful if you find yourself on the coast and are wondering what to do with your bikes or feet! California was such a good place to explore and I’m sure you’ll enjoy it too. Cheers, Dakota


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Thank You Portland

We didn't get shots with nearly everyone, but here are a few of the reasons we love Portland so much!

We didn’t get shots with even close to everyone, but here are a few of the reasons we love Portland so much!

A two-faced aspect to travel is that while our souls are opened to new adventures and people, we miss out on the day-to-day moments of friendships back home. Some of those friendships hibernate, some continue on digitally, and others grow. It’s a huge trade-off, and one we speak frequently about with other travelers. We haven’t entirely figured out how to cope with it, and I’m not sure we ever will. All I know is that we can’t do it all, but we’re feeling the call of the open road and so that’s where we are until it is no longer fun.

Still, there is no place like home, and the last two weeks are a reminder why we love Portland so much. Parking the van at a friend’s in Las Vegas, we took a trip to Idaho to visit family, then flew west to Oregon. Spring is in full bloom in the northwest and flowers and budding trees sparkle everywhere. People are even wearing flip flops! In a whirlwind of meals, walks, tea dates and bike rides, we caught up with our friends after six months away.

I don’t think it is possible to cultivate the same closeness with people while on the road. Phone calls or Facetime chats can’t water the seeds of friendship the way a hug does, while Facebook leaves out the honest reality of peoples’ lives. (Looking at mine, you’d think all we do is bike, smile and do handstands.) We knew that we missed our friends, but coming back for awhile drummed home how lucky we are to have such dynamic, caring, inspiring and hilarious amigos. People raising families, building businesses, and living awesome lives. There were new engagements and marriages to raise a glass to, divorces to digest, careers in flux, pregnancies to celebrate and cute babies to hold, and life’s adventures and trials to discuss.

We jumped right into the good stuff with people. Some tales of our travels, but mostly the ways it has changed us. Perhaps the blog fills y’all in on our adventures and so we just pick up with aspirations and goals instead? It felt like the small talk wasn’t necessary – “sooooo, how have you been?” – and instead we dug right in. Thanks to all of you for making it a jam-packed, laughter-filled visit, and for weaving us back into the fabric of your lives for just one small square in the quilt.

Our visit drummed home the fact that while we may be out traveling, there is a little string from each of our friends tugging at us, a connection back to our home in the northwest. We’re off on the next leg of the journey, but we’ll be back sooner than later. Exploring, yet pulled to the greenery and vibrant pulse of Portland. Charmed by the people there, and looking forward to visiting again.

I started this short blog in the Portland airport and am finishing it among the red rocks in the Valley of Fire, just northeast of Las Vegas, before we venture north on I-15. The van 10k servicing and oil change is done, our fridge and larder is jam-packed with grub, and we even gave the Sprinter a bath, washing off the dust from SoCal and Arizona. With any luck, it will be coated in grime from adventuring in Utah very, very soon. That is certainly the plan!

Thanks to all of those we are lucky enough to call friends back home in Portland. We can’t wait to see you again sooner than later!

Headed into the canyons,

Dakota

P.S. A special thanks to Ellee, Joe for sharing their home and wonderful new baby, Ruby, with us while we visited, plus bikes to cruise around town. And to Ashley, Beth and their cheery kiddo Parker for hosting us. AND to Elly and Joe (different E&J) for letting us housesit and hang with my new feline buddy, Tigger. Lovely to see you all!

An evening run in the Valley of Fire. Views for days!

An evening run in the Valley of Fire. Views for days!

 

Goodbye to the Golden State – California Recap

Caribbean-green salt mine in the middle of the Mojave.

Caribbean-green salt mine in the middle of the Mojave.

The angel of time continues to flit her fickle wings. California, has it really been four months since we crossed over the border from Oregon? Since the day before Thanksgiving, we’ve wandered pine-needled paths of the redwood forests and then puttered south from there along Highway 1, hugging the coastline all the way to San Diego.

Google Maps says it takes 18.5 hours to bomb straight through that 968 miles, and we did it in scarcely a third of a year for a smoking eight miles per day average! *Fist pump* Albeit with some meandering along the way, as we’ve put 3,500 miles on the van during that time, just ticking over the 10k mark on the odometer two miles before Arizona.

There was lots of inspiration in that 1,000 miles! You initially welcomed us in with your empty winter beaches and towering trees, then entertained with your bridges and food in the Bay Area. Served up perfect roads and trails for our feet and our bikes, both road and mountain. Got me thinking about my past and why I write. Dropped our jaws with condors and elephant seals. Blew us away with ocean views in Big Sur. Amazed us with the silence, and the fury of a desert storm, in Joshua Tree. Surprised us with Malibu Creek State Park, just a stone’s throw from Los Angeles, and with trails north of L.A. with a view of Hollywood. Plus gave us ample time to visit friends and spend quality days with family.

Camped out on BLM land somewhere near Joshua Tree.

Camped out on BLM land somewhere near Joshua Tree.

I mused at the start of this blog about how slow travel is different from our usual rocketship journeying with a day here, day there. To spend a week (or three) in one place has felt odd occasionally, an unsettled feeling like we’re sacrificing unseen fun. There are times when the pull to get in the van and cover tons of ground strikes – “we should drive around the country!” – before breathing deeply and remembering we don’t want to travel that way. We’ve done it many times, and this time we’re shaking things up and finding it far more fulfilling. A better, deeper connection with places and people and a relaxed pace that doesn’t burn us out is the result of slowing down. We can’t recommend it enough and are grateful to have the luxury to travel this way!

We haven’t felt so flexible since traveling the world almost ten years ago. Both of us miss our friends deeply, yet this opportunity to seek adventure and stretch our boundaries is proving to be a formative change in our lives. Portland is our geographical home, yet we’re discovering home is inside where our heart pumps in our chests and GPS coordinates don’t matter. We wouldn’t trade this current experience for a fixed location anywhere.

The generosity and cheer we encounter along the way sure helps. Yesterday, a woman from L.A. asked me, “have Californians been friendly?” and I was surprised that she felt they were not. Yes! There are kind, amazing people that made us feel loved in every single place we’ve visited in the Golden State. Thanks to you all!

Golden hour in Hole-in-the-Wall in the Mojave Preserve.

Golden hour at Hole-in-the-Wall in the Mojave Preserve.

At times, travel feels almost meditative. Walking on the beach next to crashing waves in the salty wind has cleansed our feet and cleared our minds time and again on this trip. The oceanic feeling that comes from experiencing anything as vast as the Pacific Ocean or soaring redwoods is hard to describe. Alone and small, yet part of something huge, it reminds of our interconnection and also individuality in the world. There is no place better than nature to decompress and be inspired to emerge reinvigorated. To be sure, the enormity of the sea and forest holds a special place for us and we will miss it and always feel the magnetic pull of the coast and redwoods.

What’s next? I’m writing this in the red-rock desert of Mojave National Preserve just southwest of Las Vegas. From here, we head into Northern Arizona for some backpacking in the Grand Canyon (happening as you read this post) and mountain biking in Sedona while hanging with Chelsea’s family. Then we take a break from the van (!) and fly to visit my bro and his new baby in Idaho followed by a trip to Portland to see our buddies.

A flight south will bring us back to our adventure mobile to continue on through the slot canyons and slickrock paradise of Utah. From there…who knows. We’re not entirely sure and are taking it one day at a time and hoping for the best. Too flexible to plan, you might say. Such openness creates both opportunity and fear of the unknown, and we’re learning to be ok with that.

Eight year anniversary spent in the Mojave Desert. Here's to many more days just like this one!

We spent our eight year anniversary exploring the Mojave Desert. and finished up with a nice fire under the stars. Here’s to many more days together just like this one!

For all of you following along, thanks for all your emails and comments of support. We love hearing from and meeting readers and dig your suggestions of places to visit and things to do. The internet and its power to connect us to people back home, those we’ve met along the way, plus new digital pen pals is awesome. I hope our stories and photos are proving to be fun, inspiring, or at least putting a pretty picture on your screen to bring a smile to your face. There are plenty more to come.

Au revoir to California and all our friends and family here. It has been fantastic. See you again soon.

Dakota and Chelsea

C's bro Jesse, his GF and us toast to a ride.

C’s bro Jesse, his GF Jen, C and I toast to a ride near San Diego. Cheers to more traveling!

Coastal cliffs and sculpted sand and trees of Torrey Pines north of San Diego.
Coastal cliffs and sculpted sand and trees of Torrey Pines north of San Diego.

Urban mountain biking. Single track to single tunnel trails.

Urban mountain biking. Single track to single tunnel trails.

Relaxing after a fun day on the mountain bikes near Noble Canyon east of San Diego.

Relaxing after a fun day on the mountain bikes near Noble Canyon east of San Diego.

An acorn woodpecker's granary tree in the Laguna Wilderness.

An acorn woodpecker’s granary tree in the Laguna Wilderness.

 

The People You Meet During a Road Trip

This trip wouldn’t be the same without the friends we’ve met along the way. Indeed, one of the biggest surprises so far during our travels is the stunning generosity and friendliness we encounter. We aren’t asking for help and hanging out a shingle asking for gas money – pretty sure that doesn’t work with a new Mercedes –  and yet people approach us, usually intrigued by the van, and I almost always grant them a tour of the rig. (Typically when Chelsea is trying to get changed for a hike or bike ride.) And after that, immediately the hospitality is turned on. “Oh, you have to come park in our driveway!” or “Our ranch is just over the hill, come stay with us as long as you’d like.”

Our rancher buddies, Merle and Robbie, and their awesome stuffed dog and too-cute real dog.

Our rancher buddies, Merle and Robbie, and their awesome stuffed dog and too-cute real dog.

I’ve never experienced anything like it. Backpacking around the world, there were friendly people who picked me up while I hitchhiked, and Couchsurfing hosts who let me crash at their places, but random strangers inviting me to sleep at their homes? Nope. That’s a new one. And this is not an isolated experience – it has happened many times so far. People approaching us to check out the Sprinter isn’t a surprise anymore, and it’s almost stranger when we pull up to hike or into a parking lot and nobody swings by to say howdy.

Pam and John with her matching Sprinter. We come in pairs!

Pam and John with her matching Sprinter. We come in pairs!

As a running joke goes with me and Chelsea, I think everyone is my friend, I just don’t know their names yet! After the amazing experiences and great friends we’ve made, our rule now is to take people up on their offer even if it’s a little out of our way or shakes up the “schedule.” Every time we park the van at a new friend’s place, we learn something new and are inspired by people. Traveling has a way of cutting away chit chat and conversations about deep aspirations, painful yet illuminating experiences, and the core of what makes us tick as humans quickly surface over hanging out, meals and exploring their local area.

Playing with a friend's kids in the McDonald's play structure. Wheeee.

Playing with a friend’s kids in a play structure. Wheeee.

From the ferocious L.A. cyclist Ken and his devilish chess skills to the insightful healer Pam and her generous brother Bob in Morro Bay, or cheery ultrarunner Dan and his awesome wife Haley in the Santa Barbara area, we’re blown away by people’s spirit and talent. Merle and Robbie talked to us for about five minutes near Malibu and the next day we found ourselves with their awesome ranch all to ourselves when they went off to work, house unlocked and “make yourself at home” thrown over their shoulders. Jima, owner of Joshua Tree Bike Shop, arranged a shuttle ride for me and a couple other guys and we wound up staying at his cool place near Joshua Tree for a few days. The list goes on…

Hanging with Ken mid-MTB ride in the L.A. area.

Hanging with Ken mid-MTB ride in the L.A. area.

I share this not to brag. No, no – I’m hoping, in a small way, to rekindle faith in humanity and the kindness of our fellow human beings. It’s easy to bar the windows and lock the door after reading the news these days. You’d think everyone out there is a depraved killer driving a stolen car with loaded weapons in the backseat. In fact, all we’ve encountered in the last five months is generosity, open-hearted folks who want to learn and share, and a roster of new chums (that one’s for you, Ryan in London) we can’t wait to come back and visit. Missing dear friends in Portland is one of the biggest downsides to traveling, and there’s no way we could replace them, but connecting with a new cadre of inspiring friends along the way balances it out to some degree. 

Dan and Haley (and their identical van). Congrats on the new addition to the family guys!

Dan and Haley (and their identical van). Congrats on the new addition to the family guys!

Don’t be scared of the open road. Put yourself out there. Say hi to strangers. Stay open to serendipity, even if you weren’t planning it. Be prudent, but positive. Accept invitations. The connections we’ve made with wonderful people along the way has enriched our lives in so many ways and I can’t imagine this trip happening any other way. I’ll remember snippets of the bike rides in the redwoods of Santa Cruz, and the cool air and blossoming colors of an ocean sunset will occasionally swim through my mind. But I won’t forget Ken saying, “Duuuude, don’t ride that!” right before I launched into an ill-fated descent on steep loose rock. Or Dan and I racing to assemble camp chairs while Haley and Chelsea crack up (yeah yeah, he won). Those are the memories that stick. And we’re looking forward to creating many, many more along the way.

See you on the road. And if you see us first, stop by and say howdy!

Dakota

P.S. I’ve added a “Shout Outs” section to the site with thanks to some of our wonderful buddies. Some are friends from the past that we’re visiting, and others are newly minted amigos. All are awesome. Hard to keep the site updated with them all, but I’m trying!

Rolling with the boys during the Palm Canyon Epic.

Rolling with the boys during the Palm Canyon Epic.

Desert Solitude – A Week in Joshua Tree

Bracing for a storm in the park.

Bracing for a storm in the park.

Joshua Tree National Park is one of those timeless landscapes that hard-wires me to my inner core. Towering starry skies where the wisdom of light years rains down. Crisp silent mornings as the sun brightens dew drops on Cholla cacti barbs and sparks fires on giant weathered granite boulders scattered to the horizon. And don’t forget the Joshua trees themselves, those Dr. Seussian cousins of the Yucca with their branching arms and unmistakable silhouette. The park is a stunning place to explore physically on foot, bike or vertically via rock climbing. Or it’s simply a place to sit and think deeply, and to laugh with new friends as camp fire shadows dance on the granite walls.

Subtleties are the binding agent for the park’s magnificence. Like a good concerto, the silence informs the sounds. A cool breeze whispering to the rocks. A solo hummingbird staking out his Ocotillo plant or a desert tortoise plodding back to his hideout in the sandy ground. Similar to the redwood forests of Northern California and the limitless Pacific waves, deserts carve out the oceanic feeling in my soul, that feeling of being part of something infinitely bigger, older and wiser than myself. They remind me of my status as a speck suspended in this giant universe, tugging Muir-like with my actions at every other strand of this web.

I think we all crave a sense of place and history, which is likely why new suburbs make us feel uneasy. A collection of homes, dropped from above as if by a lead-addled king’s whim. They lack any sense of creation or connection to the landscape and leave us adrift and lost in cul-de-sacs of desperation. The interwoven facets of a desert, evolved and battle-tested through eons of blasting weather, from the out-stretched arms of the Joshua tree down to the wood rat nesting at the base of its trunk, are a foundation of truth where we can plant our feet and draw a source of strength straight from the bedrock to clear away the haze of day-to-day worry beneath clear blue skies.

Solace and peace wash over me in places like this. Business deals raking my mind over the coals are superseded by peaceful slumber after a walk under the Milky Way. While we visited, there was a fantastic two days of thunderstorms that piled dark thunderheads high in the sky and raged wind and water, cleansing the land and reasserting just how powerful nature is. Yet the Joshua tree, starting as a small seedling on a sheltering nurse log, grow in a hostile environment and stand for centuries beneath baking sun, gusting wind and occasionally pouring rain, all with shallow roots no larger than a finger. My life is so easy in comparison. I am lucky to breathe deeply and take in a sunset vista after a boulder-hopping ascent to the top of a valley and take these centuries of effort in.

We’ve been on the road for four months exactly as I write this and yet the journey, wherever it takes us, is just unfolding. Traipsing is “to travel about without apparent plan, with or without a purpose.” My time in the high desert presented beautiful hikes and bikes rides, scintillating sunsets and limitless night skies. Beyond that, it yielded important clarity for me, blooming in sync with the rain-soaked desert at the end of our visit. I’m feeling new focus and priorities in my life, an upswell I’ve kept at bay with excuses too long. The time is now, always, to pursue passion and challenge myself, excuses be damned. This trip, originally slated to end March 1st, continues. Onward into the unknown we tread!

Ciao from Julian, quaint city in the mountains just northeast of San Diego famous for delicious apple pies. In the words of my good friend Ryan, NOMNOMNOM.

Dakota

P.S. More pictures below!

Turbines in the windy valley west of Palm Springs.

Turbines in the windy valley west of Palm Springs.

Touring around the park our favorite way.

Touring around the park our favorite way.

Five miles into the Boy Scout Trail looking north out of Joshua Tree.

Five miles into the Boy Scout Trail looking north out of Joshua Tree.

Tiny black flowers popping up along the Boy Scout Trail.

Tiny black flowers popping up along the Boy Scout Trail.

A misty and mysterious feel to the park during a rain storm.

A misty and mysterious feel to the park during a rain storm.

Early sun-watching session after climbing up some granite in the middle of the desert.

Early sun-watching session after climbing up some granite in the middle of the desert.

Halfway through the 30 mile Palm Canyon epic - desert single track for hours!

Halfway through the 30 mile Palm Canyon epic – desert single track for hours!

Hundreds of cholla cacti in a giant garden in the middle of Joshua Tree.

Hundreds of cholla cacti in a giant garden in the middle of Joshua Tree.

Here's what we look like these days!

Here’s what we look like these days!

Cholla cacti buds after a rain storm.

Cholla cacti buds after a rain storm.

Following the butterflies on a hike.

Following the butterflies on a hike.

One needs to be careful biking in the desert!

One needs to be careful biking in the desert!

Lights out in Hidden Valley as the sun dips low.

Lights out in Hidden Valley as the sun dips low.

A starry night in Joshua Tree.

A starry night in Joshua Tree.

Happy Birthday Sprinter!

Dusk in the park.
Dusk in Malibu Creek State Park, just 20 miles north of LA,

A year ago on February 1st, we boarded a Greyhound bus from Portland to Eugene to pick up our Sprinter. Three months ago, we packed up the van and hit the road on this trip. Zooooooom…amazing how time whips on by.

We just realized this thanks to Chelsea’s cool 1-sentence journal that she keeps that shows entries year-over-year. I’d write more, but we are getting up at 5 am tomorrow to volunteer at a 50 mile ultramarathon race that happens to be starting at our campground at Malibu Creek State Park . One of the racers took us out for Chipotle and a litany of racing stories tonight and we’re gonna get up and root for him in the pitch dark as he and 250 other runners rampage off into the mountains. The race is the inaugural Sean O’Brien, if you’re interested. (It may have me thinking, “Hey, a 50k could be a fun challenge…”)

Live from the race (yay technology!). The 50 milers head out at six am.

Live from the race (yay for iPhones and remote publishing with WordPress). The 50 milers head out at six am in 28 degrees. Top finishers will run about a 7:00/mile pace and finish in 6-7 hours. Smokin’ fast!

Chelsea crushing the (very steep) Bulldog Road in Malibu Creek.
Chelsea crushing the (very steep) Bulldog Road in Malibu Creek.

Wrapping things up! A few pictures from our time here in Malibu Creek State Park. After a scant 12 hours in L.A., our plans changed when two sets of family and friends came down with the flu. Instead, we escaped up here 20 miles north into the Santa Monica mountains and are sticking to some of the core themes for this trip – getting out in nature, meeting amazing people, grabbing serendipity by the horns, and not getting too serious.

Our roadtrip buddy Hasta luego to our buddy Dan from Santa Barbara. Yes, he has an identical Sprinter to ours.
Hasta luego to our roadtrip buddy Dan, whom we met in Big Sur. Yes, he has an identical Sprinter to ours.

Til next time,

Dakota

Malibu Creek State Park is where the old show MASH was shot. Hanging out in one of the old set vehicles!
This one’s for Chelsea’s dad! Malibu Creek State Park is where the old show M*A*S*H was shot. Hanging out in one of the old set vehicles…
An amazing sunset in Malibu Creek State Park.
An amazing sunset in Malibu Creek State Park.

Exploring Big Sur

California continues to amaze us. Variety around every turn, sweeping vistas, great food, plus fun and inspiring people everywhere. Counter to how we usually travel, this period of time (has it really been almost three months?) has us traveling like a couple of retirees, hanging out in beautiful locations until we’re ready to move on. That change has been fantastic, and a new taste of travel for us since we usually hop from place to shiny new place day after day when we travel. Instead, we’re connecting with nature at a leisurely pace, visiting and meeting local friends, and not feeling rushed.

Big Sur, the fabled area framed to the north by Carmel and the San Luis Obispo county line to the south, was stunning. (Check out our travel map to the right for perspective.) Rising from the ocean in steep cliffs from the Pacific Ocean, with cell phone signals a mere gasp, we quickly learned why it attracts people from around the world. Hiking, biking, animal watching – whales, condors, and much more – and solitude were the main events, all under sunny blue skies, which is rare for January.

Even more than usual, life is chock full of fun people, places to see, work to do, and exploring to be done, and so this post is simply a photo essay with captions to tell the story. One thing is for sure: the 10 days we spent in Big Sur merely whet our appetites for this beautiful piece of the California coast, and we will absolutely be back.

Over and out from Morro Bay!

Dakota

Glowing jellyfish with long tentacles at the super-cool Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Glowing jellyfish with long tentacles at the super-cool Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Sardines whip around and around in a tank at Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Sardines whip around and around in a tank at Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Point Lobos vista south of Monterey.

Point Lobos vista south of Monterey.

 

Redwood Queen stretches her wings and gets ready to fly.

Redwood Queen stretches her wings and gets ready to fly.

Point Lobos sunset with pelicans on Bird Rock.Point Lobos sunset with pelicans on Bird Rock.

Three cormorants sun themselves in the late hours of the day in Point Lobos.

Three cormorants sun themselves in the late hours of the day in Point Lobos.

Thugnasty Chelsea.

Chelsea thugging it up in Point Lobos.

 

Cheery Chelsea.

And the counterpoint pantomime smile! 🙂

Parked overnight in Big Sur on Highway 1 on a starry night.Parked overnight in Big Sur on Highway 1 on a starry night.

A deer munches away on dinner in Point Lobos State Park.

A deer munches away on dinner in Point Lobos State Park.

Another morning view from our van in Big Sur.

Another morning view from our van in Big Sur.

The impressive span at Bixby Canyon Bridge. (Click to view full size, it looks much better!)

The impressive span at Bixby Canyon Bridge. (Click to view full size, it looks much better!)

Ocean foam in Point Lobos State Park.

Ocean foam in Point Lobos State Park.

A twisting Highway 1 cuts through Big Sur.

A twisting Highway 1 cuts through Big Sur.

Pretending I like alcohol at Nepenthe, a gorgeous redwood restaurant overlooking the Big Sur coast. I wound up sipping my (super strong) Manhattan a couple times and then giving it away to a young guy who regaled us with stories of backpacking the Appalachian Trail in -5 degree weather. He deserved it more than I did.

Pretending I like alcohol at Nepenthe, a gorgeous redwood restaurant overlooking the Big Sur coast. I wound up sipping my (super strong) Manhattan a couple times and then giving it away to a young guy who regaled us with stories of backpacking the Appalachian Trail in -5 degree weather. He deserved it more than I did.

A chair carved into a stump in Big Sur.

A chair carved into a stump in Big Sur.

 

An old college camping spot, Salmon Creek.

An old college camping spot, Salmon Creek.

An inquisitive little guy checks us out at a Big Sur vista point.An inquisitive little guy checks us out at a Big Sur vista point.

A redwood seedling at the base of a scorched older tree. Redwoods have dormant seeds that grow in burls (big bumps) that crack open in fire, starting the next generation.

The next generation: A redwood seedling at the base of a scorched older tree.

Sun spots on the Pacific.

Sun spots on the pillowed Pacific.

This one's for Chelsea. (Point Lobos State Park.)

A message from years of ocean waves wearing away a rock. (Point Lobos State Park.)

Dew on  some Big Sur greenery.

Dew on some Big Sur greenery.

Top of the Overlook Trail at Julia Pffeifer Burns State Park watching condors circle below.

Top of the Overlook Trail at Julia Pffeifer Burns State Park watching condors circle below.

Enjoying the vista at the top of Soberanes, an amazing (and hard) hike at the northern tip of Big Sur.

Enjoying the vista at the top of Soberanes, an amazing (and hard) hike at the northern tip of Big Sur.

Three Weeks in Santa Cruz

When our dear friends Jamie and Evan told us they were moving to Santa Cruz from Portland, not only were we super sad, we didn’t quite get it. How could anyone leave Portland, an amazing city with so many fantastic people, forward-thinking projects, great food, not to mention bike jousting or guys riding unicycles wearing kilts and playing bagpipes…random Portlandia scenes, ya know.

Panorama in Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz cliffs.

Now, we get it. Santa Cruz is a perfect blend of city, ocean, forest, and fun, all smashed into a sunny pocket of Central California that just served up a seriously awesome holiday break for us. Here’s the story of three excellent weeks in a few sentences and lots of pictures!

Looking back during a beach walk.

Looking back during a beach walk.

-Riding the Ohlone Bluff trail on with Chelsea and her family. It’s a rutted dirt road framed on the west by cliffs that slip down into the water of the Pacific, brussel sprout farms to the east, and red tailed hawks soaring in the wind above us. Chelsea’s parents, who will forever be tougher than us, rode 18 miles on town comfort bikes with no suspension (or padded shorts) on the rough, bouncy road. I don’t know how they do it!

Hamming it up somewhere along the Ohlone Bluff trail (C photo credit)

Hamming it up somewhere along the Ohlone Bluff trail (C photo credit)

This trip is all about teamwork and a cheery outlook!

This trip is all about teamwork and a cheery outlook!

-Hours of Settlers of Catan with the family eating food, trading laughs and commodities, and trying not to team up on Chelsea’s brother Jesse too much.

Settlers of Catan. Game time with the family!

Settlers of Catan. Game time with the family!

-Mountain biking. I adore Santa Cruz trails! Right out our door, I could ride a mile to single track trails that led up through grasslands into scrub oak and then into redwood trails twisting around gnarled limbs and stumps. Unreal fun – I can’t get enough of it! Eleven rides in three weeks.

Sunset ride at Wilder Ranch north of Santa Cruz.

Sunset ride at Wilder Ranch north of Santa Cruz.

Exploring the Demonstration Forest in Nisene Marks State Park with Evan.

Exploring the Demonstration Forest in Nisene Marks State Park with Evan.

Cruising trails with new friend Craig in Nisene Marks State Park.

Cruising trails with new friend Craig in Nisene Marks State Park.

-Watching Monarch butterflies start their winter migration. They start at Natural Bridges State Park clumped in frozen masses waiting for the morning sun to hit their wings. Then they power up like little batteries, their wings acting as solar panels. Soon they are flittering about in the light, heading northeast eventually as the weather warms up.

A bundle of monarchs in the morning sun.

A bundle of monarchs in the morning sun.

-Walking West Cliff Drive, a long ocean-side path looking south across Monterey Bay. We watched seals, dolphins, sea lions, pelicans, and cormorants mingle and play on the water. Along with what seemed like hundreds of surfers out on Steamers Lane by the lighthouse, bobbing up and down.

Chelsea and her family watch seals on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

Chelsea and her family watch seals on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

A pair of seagulls hanging out.

A pair of seagulls hanging out.

Ice plants and Santa Cruz homes.

Ice plants and Santa Cruz homes.

Sunset on the cliffs.

Sunset on the cliffs.

Sunset on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

Sunset on the cliffs of Santa Cruz.

Coastal view north of Santa Cruz on a family walk.

Coastal view north of Santa Cruz on a family walk.

 

A cool arrangement of keys in a local Santa Cruz shop.

A cool arrangement of keys in a local Santa Cruz shop.

-Days and evenings spent hanging with Jamie and Evan. Laughing our heads off at random things and helping them move into their new home after packing them up in Portland. Hanging on their deck watching deer in the field below or listening to owls hooting in the trees. Great friends are hard to find and we are lucky to have these guys in our lives and can’t wait to see them again.

Hanging with Jamie, Evan and their two fun doggies.

Hanging with Jamie, Evan and their two fun doggies.

 And with that, Santa Cruz is behind us. Adios for now good friends and great times. We shall certainly return!

We are currently exploring the wonders of Big Sur and absolutely loving it. What a place. I’ll leave you with a teaser picture…high up on Highway 1 from our van this morning. Room with a view!

View from our window on Highway 1 this morning.

View from our window on Highway 1 this morning.

Why We’re Out Here – A Snapshot

Now that we’re on the road, I don’t want to just talk about the good stuff. After all, the best travel stories are tales of misadventure and discomfort. I can draw a dozen arrows of pain from my memory quiver that still stick in my mind: 14 hours into a packed night train ride in China, Chelsea and I get puked on by a cute little Chinese girl; feverishly ill in a hostel in Burma with MalariaTyphoidDeathFever, which I then give to my friend Eric, who shivers so badly on the plane ride out that he puts a plastic bag on his head to try to stay warm; getting frisked by overzealous Russian policeman knowing that my visa invitation is not legit, and that I’m couchsurfing illegally. You know what I’m talking about. Lost passports, unraveling plans, adversity. The “good” stuff!

All that said: Just so that my mom and dad don’t think traveling is all about suffering, let’s talk about today. It has not been one of those days where we wake up with a Chinese kid’s vomit in our ramen. Today is the wow-how-am-I-so-lucky day.

We woke up to a knock on the van door. Jamie and Evan, our amazing Santa Cruzian™ friends, had a breakfast spread of granola and fruit, buttery English muffins and hot cider ready to munch on looking out over the Pacific Ocean. Yes please, I will have some cinnamon roll too. Then Chelsea and Jamie head out to kayak, and I launch out the door on my mountain bike ride to explore Nisene Marks State Park, right at the bottom of their driveway.

Sunset reflected in the Sprinter. Parked for a few days!

Sunset reflected in the Sprinter. Parked for a few days!

Chelsea is aware that I’m typically an hour to three hours late returning from mountain biking. I’m a punctual guy, yet there is something about biking in the woods that extends timelines and washes away caring about time. Not this time, dang it. I give her a timeline – back at 12:30 – and head out. First phase is a solid eight miles uphill through gorgeous redwoods, and then a quick food break. While I’m there, I chat with three local guys out for a jaunt. “Hey, want us to show you around?” they ask. Yes please.

People who know me (hopefully) consider me a pretty fit guy. Does. Not. Matter. Turns out that Austin, Jeremy and Pete have bikes with rocket boosters on them. Or ate Velociraptor for breakfast and are ready to tear some legs off. We do a climb Jamie said would take me 40 minutes, but in 20. (Wait, I thought this was a good day?) I cease talking about five minutes into the climb and try to keep my tongue out of my spokes and my lungs from pushing my eyes out of my head. Repeat, about a dozen times in the next three hours. Biking is fun.

Mid-ride in Nisene Marks. You can barely tell I'm exhausted.

Mid-ride in Nisene Marks. You can barely tell I’m exhausted. Yes, it’s a blurry snapshot…

However! In between the hamstring-shredding uphills, which I secretly enjoy anyway, we snake through redwood groves on twisty single track that splits my face with a gigantic grin again and again. They tour me through hidden trails cut in way back in the forest where Ewoks chatter from the trees and deer scatter up narrow ravines. It is sunny and 65 and I haven’t a care in the world other than not losing my guides and spending two weeks lost in the wild.

Cut past the end of the ride. Late getting home yet again, only by two hours (sigh). I’m draining four glasses of a tasty berry smoothie while sitting in the warm sun with my shirt off watching birds hop around the yard. Our friend’s dog Cooper repeatedly brings me a ball, which I chuck over and over (who is the trained one here anyway?). I lie down on my back and close my eyes, soaking in the rays on my tired body. This moment right here is why we are on this trip. I know there will be periods of logistical headaches and unforeseen complications that stress us out. Yet as the red glow of a sunset darkens the sky as I write this, I know these snippets of awesome are the reason we are out here.

Now please excuse me while I go stretch my aching hamstrings.

Looking out over the Pacific Ocean.

Looking out over the Pacific Ocean.

Sunset composition.

Sunset composition.

 

Exploring the Bay Area

The last five days have been a whirlwind of visiting friends and exploring the Bay Area. A shift from the empty Northern California coast, and I was surprised by our reaction to the frenetic energy of the big city. I always am, but seem to forget! Portland doesn’t have that giant city feel that San Francisco, New York, and L.A. have, and I feel like a small-town Idaho kid wandering around gaping at horseless carriages!

Under the Golden Gate Bridge.

Under the Golden Gate Bridge.

One thing I noticed was that my focus to write was gone. Not sure why, but a few days in the city and the words just jumbled together. I have a few rough drafts sitting unfinished with threads leading everywhere, yet the ideas not quite coalescing into anything I feel good about publishing. Soon…

The famous Golden Gate Bridge, with San Francisco behind it.

The famous Golden Gate Bridge, with San Francisco behind it.

So for now, here’s a few snapshots from this week. Frenetic energy or not, it has been a fantastic time! Here are a few highlights:

  • Enroute from the coast, a trip to Wild Flour bakery near Bodega Bay. Best. Cinnamon. Rolls. EVER. We grab four giant rolls, plus some scones, to share with buddies in the Bay Area. Nom nom nom nom nom.

    Scones, cinnamon rolls and amazing bread. We got about four of everything. Gluten free we ain't!

    Scones, cinnamon rolls and amazing bread. We got about four of everything. Gluten free we ain’t!

  • Meeting Dave O, aka Graphite Dave, of Sprinter-Source.com fame. When we first got our van, an accessories company said, “Read his stuff. All of it.” So we did. This guy knows everything about vans and has written an amazing amount of helpful information. He’s our Sprinter Hero. And a super nice guy in person too. Oh, and his van is badass.

    Hanging with Graphite Dave, master of Sprinter-Source.com.

    Hanging with Graphite Dave.

  • Feeling cooped up in Oakland. Best way to fix that: a run! Charging past graffiti in the park, up rip-your-lungs-out steep hills into a neighborhood where private security details eye me like I’m wearing an orange jumpsuit. Views of the Bay Area stretch out in the distance and I instantly feel better. I love running in cities that I visit – such a fun way to explore.

    A cheery graffiti face on a bridge pillar seen on a run in Oakland.

    A cheery graffiti face on a bridge pillar seen on a run in Oakland.

  • Seeing old friends! Staying with friends Megan and Chris in their rad new home and hearing all about their adventures. Catching up with my friend Brian and checking out his awesome company, Makani Power, which makes big flying kites that operate as wind turbines with a lease tethered to the ground. So cool seeing what brilliant engineers can come up with. Dinner with Ryan and Kelly with their cmon-can-babies-be-that-cute new daughter. So great to see y’all!

    Great seeing you Brian, Megan/Chris and Ryan/Kelly/Kennedy (in the too-cute pink sleep suit).

    Buddies in the Bay! Megan is wrapped up like a nun to stay warm. And apparently I only take pictures with my hands in my pockets. Or maybe it’s just cold!

  • Back on the road bike! Haven’t been riding much lately with the cold weather and twisty Highway 1 as the option, so it’s fun to get out. Head out from San Francisco across the Golden Gate Bridge, dodging both tourists and glaring Lycra-clad locals, then heading up into the Marin headlands for a fantastic loop with a view of the bay and the city. It must be amazing to have that kind of riding straight from downtown SF!

    Mid-ride across the Golden Gate Bridge on the Marin Headlands loop.

    Mid-ride across the Golden Gate Bridge on the Marin Headlands loop.

  • After a night walk in the picturesque Mill Valley looking out at the valley sparkling below, listening to cars roaring by on a not-so-quiet road alllll niiiiight looong. Still figuring out this “where to sleep” thing. Van life isn’t always easy!
  • Exploring a different view of the Bay - through the pillars of the Golden Gate Bridge.

    Exploring a different view of the Bay – through the pillars of the Golden Gate Bridge.

  • Mountain biking! Hooooray. A coastal mountain bike shred looking out over the bay in China Camp State Park. Chelsea sees 19 turkeys along the way, and I scare about 16 bouncing deer. And drop my backpack down a 100 foot incline and do a little “hiking.”

    A coastal mountain bike ride at China Camp State Park in Marin County.

    A coastal mountain bike ride at China Camp State Park in Marin County.

It was a great city visit. That said, we’re on this trip for access to nature, so we decided to head south to get back to it! Writing this from Santa Cruz, with access to redwood-shaded singletrack for biking. We’ll be here for over two weeks! Seeing some great friends down here and then it’s our holiday location with Chelsea’s family.

Marin Headlands looking into San Francisco.

Marin Headlands looking into San Francisco.

I’m hoping for more room to write and relax, plus add a few adjustments to the van. I’ll be adding some LED lights, a muffler for the spaceship-loud heater, and another sliding drawer in the back. And perhaps learning to surf!

Cheers from Central California,

Dakota

P.S. I added an Instagram feed to the right sidebar. Check it out, or follow along @traipsingabout. I’ll add quick snap shots in there between posts.

Three Weeks on the Road – A Recap

This trip, like most, is comprised of snippets of awesome, wide swaths of normal life logistics and work, periods of discomfort, and peaks of hilarity and loving life. I’ve found it hard to fit in writing, photography, working, adventuring, and spending more time with Chelsea – all priorities for this trip – and so the quick update posts have lagged.

There are certain images from the last few weeks of travel that stick with me, however, and here they are. No particular order, just a brain dump with some photos to help tell the story.

  • Sunset and morning walks on beaches watching seals and birds frolic in the surf. Given the late season, we are so lucky to have had almost entirely blue skies to explore the beaches and forests of Oregon and Northern California.

    Exploring the beach.

    Exploring the beach. (Cape Blanco State Park)

  • Listening to Chelsea giggle hysterically – one of the best sounds in the world – when I pick her up by the elbow and help her skip on the beach.
  • Searching for great food amid the greasy spoon cafes and $$$-on-Yelp seafood restaurants. We are so spoiled by amazing cuisine in Portland. Bandon had some amazing grub (The Loft and Edgewaters), Trinidad had some great vegan food (The Lighthouse Cafe), Ft. Bragg had a great vegan breakfast cafe (Cafe 1), and Mendocino’s Good Life Cafe & Bakery with the best pecan pie everrrrrr, and a lifesaver on a cold rainy day.
  • Running solo on the Avenue of Giants through the redwoods on silent trails with just the sound of my breath puffing in the cold air.

    This one's for Margi. Stretching: an imperative part of anyone's exercise routine.

    This one’s for Margi. Stretching: an imperative part of anyone’s exercise routine.

  • Chelsea making me stop the van to help herd a frog out of the way. Me: “He’ll move.” “No he won’t. DON’T drive!” (At least it was in a campground and not on a highway…geez she loves animals.)
  • Reading a good book by a crackling fire with the wind howling outside. Loving the iPad and ebooks for this trip.

    On the beach near Crescent City.

    On the beach near Crescent City.

  • Getting a knock on the van door while parked at a visitor center in the redwoods. Why hello, Park Ranger. “Sorry to wake you.” (Huh? It’s 11:30 am. Is my hair that bad?) “We got a report that you’ve been camped out here a couple days.” Me: “Oh, we actually move at night. This is the only place in this park where I get reception for my wifi hotspot since I’m working from the road.” Problem solved – she was super nice.
  • Late-night dinner of mashed potatoes in a waffle cone in Trinidad, a tiny little town north of Arcata. That’s a new one!
  • A morning paddle in a canoe on a light work day. Slicing quietly through the water watching geese and then hiking through sand dunes to the ocean.

    Chelsea, the intrepid explorer.

    Chelsea, the intrepid explorer. (Point Arenas)

  • Freezing our butts (and fingers and toes) off. Mostly outside, but it is definitely tougher to keep a van warm when it’s 26 at night, even with a heater and insulation. Hooray for heating pads and a lofty comforter. We’re gonna make it!

    Chelsea knows how to stay warm in an ice age.

    Chelsea knows how to stay warm in an ice age.

  • With all the driving, plus no longer working at a standing desk, I can already feel my hamstrings and hip flexors contracting me into a Gollum-esque pose.
  • To combat the above, a candlelit evening yoga in Arcata for a welcome retreat from the cold rain outside.
  • Working from some seriously random locations. In no particular order: a rest stop, the passenger seat of the van going down I-5 while Chelsea drives, a variety of restaurants and coffee shops, a laundromat, the western-most point in the U.S., next to a 10-foot-tall seagull made from found plastic beach trash, on a dock, from a streambed in the middle of the redwoods, from an estuary watching cascading ripples of shore birds… Technology is a wonderful and empowering thing in some ways.

    Morning frost at the beach.

    Morning frost at the beach. (MacKerricher State Park)

  • Waking up every morning in the cozy cocoon of our van, often taking a second to recenter my compass and figure out where we are!
  • Driving at night on twisty coastal highways, yellow dashed lines rolling off into the distance. Deer grazing on the sides of the road, mice skittering across.

    Night driving.

    Night driving somewhere in the redwoods.

  • Overnight parking anywhere and everywhere. Our van looks more like a surveillance vehicle than an RV and it is easy to sneak incognito into a neighborhood, drop the blackout curtains and kick back in our house on wheels. As Chelsea’s mom innocently asked the other day when we mentioned all the vagrants and panhandlers in Arcata, “So, you just park on the street with all the other vagrants.” Yes, yes we do Linda. You must be so proud.

    From the 1930s, a 11-foot-diameter hollowed out redwood made into a camper van. Our Sprinter has nothing on this.

    From the 1930s, a 11-foot-diameter windfall redwood donated and made into a camper van by a guy who used the rig to spread the preservation message. Our Sprinter has nothing on this.

  • Listening to nature outside the van: crashing waves, rain on the roof (infrequent so far!), wind in the trees, ravens croaking, squirrels duking it out. It feels very up close and personal in a van. Not quite the exposure of a tent, but certainly not the protective moat feeling of a house.

    Hiking in the redwoods.

    In the redwoods prehistoric jungle. (Tall Trees Grove, Prairie Creek State Park)

  • Similar to above, connection to nature: instant access outside our van to hiking, biking, and exploring. This was a big part of our reason to travel in a van, as it saves the trip to get TO nature. Trade-offs, of course, since we don’t have the amenities of the city, but so far a very good exchange.

    Hiking in Tall Trees grove.

    Hiking in Tall Trees grove.

  • Tossing a football on the beach with a young kid from Kansas. I always run a receiving pattern when I see somebody with a football to see if they’ll throw it to me. Often, they do, though sometimes all I get is a wide-eyed “what are you doing?” stare.
  • Finding surprisingly great co-ops down the coast. Lots of bulk food without packaging, which is always hard to find in small towns.

    No packaging party in Crescent City, CA.

    No-packaging party in Crescent City, CA.

  • Silence: Turns out there is nobody around on the NorCal coast in the winter. Most hikes we do are totally alone. Quick story about solitude. Budget reductions in place, the road is closed to Tall Trees Grove in the redwoods. We grab mountain bikes and head out for the seven miles. No big deal. STRAIGHT down the mountain…down down down. It’s bad when you are dreading the ride up before you even start back up. Halfway down, a big black bear runs across the road in front of me. I crank on the brakes so hard hydraulic fluid sprays in my eyes. Or was that adrenaline?
    The hike is totally amazing, with tiny mushrooms sprouting everywhere and 300+ foot redwoods towering over us with a bed of dewy ferns and moss. Not a person to be seen with our wide-eyed stares of gratitude to have this scene to ourselves. The much-feared bike ride isn’t so bad – slow and steady out before it is totally dark. For  me, a  bad day outside in nature is better than a great one inside working on a computer. 

    We'll get outta here even if we have to leapfrog our way.

    We’ll get outta here even if we have to leapfrog our way. (Founders Grove, Humboldt Redwoods)

  • Only a few days into our trip, finding serious inspiration in the WashedAshore.org project and staying around to work on the project and getting to know the founder. They invited us to use their awesome cabin in the woods for three nights, a marvelous retreat. Thanks Angela and Frank!

    Puffin made entirely of plastic trash.

    Puffin made entirely of plastic trash picked up on the beach by volunteers. (Bandon, OR)

  • Talking to a 23 year old engineer above the beach in Bandon. He’s parked with the rear hatch of his Subaru open, dreadlocked hair waving, playing an electric guitar to the ocean. He’s there in the morning, and later when we bike through, and still there when we drive up for the sunset. “Dude, made $44 bucks today playing up here!” He graduated in June, packed his car and drove to Oregon. Two engineering jobs, both quick – “I can’t settle down man, not yet” – and just doing his thing. Homeless, with a world full of options. Nathan, I wish you well on your journey, wherever that takes you.
  • Getting up before dark to write while Chelsea slumbers away. Screen glowing in the quiet van, tick tick tick. My pen pal friend Pam challenged me to write more – she did 1,000 words per day for awhile – so I’m trying!Learning how to write.

I’m finishing up this post, which I started a week ago in the redwoods, from our cozy van in the Bodega Bay Dunes Campground. Clear, cold night, Modest Mouse on the stereo. Got a great run in earlier and then we posted up overlooking a rocky beach and I took a nap while Chelsea read. Saturday afternoons rock! We are headed to the Bay Area later this week to see some friends from college, which I’m excited about.

Contemplative moments abound.

Contemplative moments abound. (Cape Blanco, southern Oregon)

Be well and stay warm out there, wherever you are.

Dakota

Taking It Slow

Beach walk in Bandon.

Traveling is a rush. It’s easy to get wrapped up in “go go go.” I’ve done it, both internationally and in the U.S., almost every time I journey somewhere. Places to see, people to visit – onward! That doesn’t leave much room for clarity and introspection to occur, just a constant rush of food, new friends, and fresh experiences.

A big part of this trip is wanting to take things as they come, with as little agenda as possible. Rather than already being down in the redwoods as planned, we are still near Bandon, posted up in a cabin on a lake with the Milky Way stenciled brightly above and a roaring fire in the brick fireplace. There’s a canoe nestled up next to the dock, and a flock of geese that honks over the glassy water every morning. In short, it’s the reason we are out here exploring. The perfect place to knock out some work, go running, walk the beach and do some reading and writing by the fire.

Another day at the office.

Another day at the office. Pacing and talking on the phone with a client.

We’re here because Chelsea is the anti-plastic crusader in our little sphere and the aforementioned Washed Ashore project inspired us to contribute. We’re here because usually our lives push us ever-forward with little time for reflection, and the last few crazy months had zero breathing room. Nothing like watching the snapping flame of burning wood to recenter and breathe in, breathe out. I rarely carve out time to meditate, and this feels like where I need to be right now.

I know this won’t last forever, and that tomorrow morning the multitude of emails and phone calls I get every day will start rolling in. All part of the weekly work cycle. It’s the rhythmic waves on the beach at sunset and the sparkling stars that remind me why nature and embracing that feeling of “this is where I need to be right now” is so important.

I hope you’re able to disconnect here and there this week and enjoy the last few days of November before winter sets in. It’s hard to do, just like everything important and necessary. Time to slow down and enjoy a walk with family, or a talk with a good friend you’ve not spoken to in a long time. I’ve felt the positive energy from it already, and I bet you will too.

From our home away from home,

Dakota

Trade-Offs

I suspect this trip, like all journeys away from the comforts of home, will be about trade-offs. No shower, just a room with a view. A small stove, but breakfast in the sun. No comfortable couch, just a sandy beach to walk on in the early morning.

Morning sun over the beach.

At least for now, that sounds divine! Ask me in a couple months and we shall see.

Oatmeal for morning grub!

Oatmeal for morning grub overlooking the beach in Bandon.

 

Let the Road Trip Begin

Heading out!

We’re going on a road trip! Our house is rented out, our van buildout is done (the neighbors are still rejoicing), and the wireless hotspot for my work needs is blinking green. In fact, I’m typing this from sunny Bandon, Oregon in the Mobile Office Rig while overlooking the ocean.

This post almost was entitled Boomeranging Millennials Return Home. As Chelsea’s dad Steve (mostly) jokingly reminded us, 1/3 of our age group is currently living with their parents. Thanks for the hospitality while we finished the van buildout, Steve and Linda…and for watching our cat Oliver while we’re gone. I appreciate you letting me use every single tool in your garage workshop to finish out the van buildout. Couldn’t have done it without all 1,323 tools that I left strewn about in my wake. You’ll find the jigsaw blade guide eventually, I promise.

Nope, moving home is not the plan. After over a year of talking about it, plus the purchase and build out of a road trip vehicle (our Sprinter van), Chelsea and I are hitting the road for a few months (edit March 24, 2014: open-ended timeline) of discovery, visiting friends and family, making new friends, and rolling around the California coast (and beyond) in our van. It isn’t a full-time party, as I’ll be working remotely and checking in with two six (as of May 2014) employees back home, but it should be a fun adventure.

A great run along the coast in Bandon, Oregon.

A great run along the coast in Bandon, Oregon.

What’s coming up? Stories of the fun of living in a 6×12 foot space, and the headaches since that’s often the funny stuff. (I suspect some of you are thinking only of the inconveniences of a tiny space like that.) I’ll also include shots of me hard at work in my remote office locations to prove that I can’t get away with just disappearing entirely.

The plan? To head south from Portland, sleeping in our van along the way. We’ll spend Thanksgiving in the redwoods on the border of California and Oregon, then onward down the coast of California. Straight south via highway 1 and 101 through the Bay Area, stopping many times along the way, eventually ending up in San Diego. From there…we shall see.

Goals for the trip are few…and yet probably still too many. After a long break, I want to write more and take more photos. (Hence, the blog.) I want to play my guitar. And run. And ride my bikes (mountain and road versions are with us). And visit friends and family along the way, and talk to random strangers. And I want to enjoy it all with Chelsea while overlooking the ocean while sea lions bark down below, or big redwoods sway in the winter breeze, or waves crash on a sunny (<–key word) beach. Slow down, relax a little, and take it all in.

We are looking forward to connecting with you along the way. Drop us a line, we’re around. Just don’t mail us anything.

Onward!

Finishing up the work week at sunset.

Finishing up the work week at sunset.

Plastic whale

Chelsea in a plastic whale rib cage at the Washed Ashore project.